Wednesday, 7 December 2016

1760s Casaquin -or- How to make an 18th century Dress From a Single Indian Sari

Pattern: None. Self drafted to mimic styles in extant fashion plates and garments.
Fabric: 100% silk, Indian, made from a single 5 meter sari.
             Interlining of cotton twill, medium weight.
             Lining of cotton osnaburg, unbleached.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *this garment utilizes a pinned stomacher closure and has a moderate ease of fit.
Chest: 34-35"
Waist: 27-28.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40.5" at back. Cut to fit over large bum roll.
Back width: 11.5" (18th c. silhouette, shoulders thrown back more than typical of modern figures)
Upper Arm Circ.: 13" max.

Closure Method: Spiral lacing at front, covered by pinned stomacher. Jacket edges are then pinned to  the stomacher to conceal.

**The rest of the finished garment images begin about half way down the post

Sunday, 27 November 2016

1770s "ribbon candy" Anglaise - Larkin & Smith English Gown Pattern

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" is the base, though the fronts are altered to have a closed front rather than a stomacher, and the robings have been omitted
Fabric: Cotton blend, cream, with narrow stripes of purple, blue, red, and green.
             White cotton for lining, bodice and sleeves only.
Undergarments: Dress form torso padded to reflect general shaping of 18th century stays. Foundation item is a large crescent bum roll (see further down).

Chest: 43"
Waist: 35"
Hip: free
Hem: 40" at front, 10" drag at back. *hem is shaped to accommodate a bum roll.

Construction Notes: Hand stitched

Sunday, 9 October 2016

R4552 - Vintage Anne Adams, 1950. Halloween Print

Pattern: Anne Adams, R4552, issues in 1950(?). Purchased from local thrift store for $0.20.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, novelty print. 100% linen, black.
Pattern size: labeled '38'. Chart shows chest 38, waist 32. Pattern is marketed as "stout" figures.
Available on Etsy HERE
Final Garment Measurements: *as measured on dress form shown
Chest: 40"
Waist: 33"
Hip: 43"
The pattern has a comfortable amount of ease built in, indicating this was not intended to be tight. I prefer a closer fit, so I padded my form to suit that.

Tuesday, 4 October 2016

Butterick B6055 - Halloween Inspired Day Dress

Pattern: Butterick B6055 , Retro Collection. Originally produced in 1950.
Fabrics: Novelty Halloween cotton print (witch cameos*). Black cotton twill with velvet flocked pattern.
Pattern Size Cut: 22
Available on Etsy HERE
Alterations?: Yes. I added cuffs to the sleeves and black lace binding to the hem. I also used faux jewel accents above the pockets instead of ties. No alterations to fit. Dress is cut from the pattern "as is."
Final Measurments (as shown on dress form):
Chest: 45" (large cup)
Waist: 38"
Hip: 46"
Hem: 30" from waist seam
Cuff circumference: 14"
Standard US Dress Size: 16/18

*Purchased last year from JoAnn Fabrics. I don't know if it is still being carried.

Thursday, 8 September 2016

1750 Mantua - Norah Waugh XIV. Anglaise en fourreau

Pattern: 1740-1750 Mantua, diagram XIV from Norah Waugh The Cut of Women's Clothes. Extant garment described as heavy white silk damask and housed at the Victoria and Albert Museum. I could not find images of the extant garment.
Fabric: 100% silk Taffeta, beige/cream. Medium weight.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *These reflect a range due to the nature of the front closure
Chest: 36/27"
Waist: 31/32"
Shoulders: 17"
Back Width: 13"
Upper Arm: 15.5" (Sleeves in the early 18th century were wider and more relaxed than later)
Armhole to Waist seam: 8.5"

Friday, 26 August 2016

Making an 18th century cloak

Making an 18th century Cloak 
~It's All in the Hood~

Like a lot of people, I assumed cloaks were one of those "generic" garments that changed very little over the centuries when when it was worn, sort of like the standard lady's shift (which isn't as generic as we thought either). I soon found, however, that the hood shape was the easier way to tell if something was 18th century or later. 
Available on Etsy HERE
Fabric: Cotton jacquard, charcoal black. 100% silk lining, gold-orange.
Construction: Hand stitching for all visible areas, including hem edge stitching. 

Saturday, 20 August 2016

Casaquin Jacket - Purple & Green Silk

Pattern: Drafting using the Norah Waugh, Diagram XXX "1760s Jacket" as a base. Petticoat is self drafted.
Fabrics: 100% silk. Main body is a two-tone silk consisting of magenta and deep blue, creating a final "ultraviolet" hue (this is also the name of the thread that matched perfectly, lol). Contrast trim and the stomacher is apple green silk.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *As they are on the dress form pictured
Chest: 39"
Waist: 31"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at sides, 41" at back.
Bicep: 13"
Back Width: 13.5"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Stomacher Length: 12"

1770s Casaquin Jacket - Deep violet silk. The Antique Sewist