Tuesday, 18 April 2017

1775 Orange Stripe Caraco - Pet-en-l'air Style

Patterns: J.P Ryan "Pet-en-l'air" pattern, altered.
Fabrics: 100% Cotton; cream with orange and dark grey stripes. Cotton osnaburg lining.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 38-41
Waist: 33 - 36
Upper arm: <14.5"

Construction Details:
Hand stitched in all visible areas. I only used machine stitching on inside seams. Also handmade eyelets for the front lining lacing.
The ruching on the stomacher has scalloped cut edges.
Lining has size adjustment options at center front and center back. The front laces closed and the center back has ties.

Friday, 3 March 2017

1880s Black Evening Gown - Asymmetrical

Era: Victorian, Late Bustle, 1883-1890
Patterns: Truly Victorian #261 Skirt, #382 "Add-On", and #460 Bodice (altered)
Fabric: Faux-silk faille, 100% polyester. Sleeves are black chiffon with black velvet flocking.

Chest: 43" max.
Waist: 34"
Back Width: 15" max
Sleeve Length: 15" from shoulder to end of cuff.
Hem: 40" at front, 44" at back.

This dress consists of 4 separate parts: Bodice, Skirt, Over-skirt, and Fichu (scarf). The fabric is a polyester/rayon blend done in imitation of a very small rib silk faille. The bodice is fully interfaced in cotton, lined in black cotton, and has 8 bones on the seams and front darts. The neckline is low and wide, suitable to evening, but the a fichu of matching fabric to the sleeves can fill in the neckline for day time wear.

The over-skirt is originally intended to be an add-on to the skirt, but I gave it a separate waistband so the skirt can be worn alone, if designed, or pieces can be mixed and matched with other garments. I'm not a fan of compound skirts with a lot of things all attached together, because they are difficult to wash, iron, and store properly. 

Friday, 24 February 2017

1887 Paisley Print Day Dress

Patterns: Truly Victorian #261 Skirt, Truly Victorian #367 Cascade OverSkirt, Truly Victorian #460 Bodice (altered).
Fabrics: 100% cotton, printed in a paisley design of red, gold, tan, black, and grey (It's a pretty complex printing). Black broadcloth for overskirt and bodice cuffs.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 45"
Waist - 36"
Hem - 38.8" at front. 43.5" at back (cut for large bustle)
Back Width - 16"
Bicep - 16"
Neck - 17" max.

Friday, 17 February 2017

1872 Summer Dress - Plaid Cotton

Patterns: None. Self drafting for all pieces
Fabric: Lightweight 100% Cotton. Black, goldenrod, and white, all with a cross-weave of white (which has the effect of making the black look speckled and the goldenrod lighter in areas)

Chest: 42-44" (Padding and/or under-breast padding was common at this time)
Waist: 34"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 38" at front. 43" at back.
Available on Etsy HERE
This is an early 1870s day/evening dress suitable to the harsh summer heat. Contrary to the accepted norms of 19th century dress, ladies did wear short sleeves bodices in the summer heat, especially in the deep south and out West. This is backed up by extant pieces as well as some private photography from the era showing ladies in short sleeve dresses that were clearly not evening gowns.

This dress comes with a matching fichu that fills in the bodice and covers the shoulders for day wear, but is then removed to leave the shoulders and chest bare for evening wear.

Wednesday, 8 February 2017

1910s, WWI Plaid Silk Dress Set - Blouse & Skirt

Patterns: Truly Victorian TVE30 " 1911 Narrow Panel Skirt ", and Truly Victorian TVE45 " 1911 Narrow Panel Blouse ".
Fabrics: 100% silk, Dupioni with a very low slub and grain. Plaid in shades of black, brown, and gold. Skirt lining is gray broadcloth. The blouse is unlined.
Available on Etsy HERE

Pattern Review: HIGHLY recommend both patterns. Both are very simply and go together quickly. You will most likely have to do fitting alterations on the skirt simply because it's such a close-fitting design, but other than that both are excellent. For the blouse, the shoulders have a tendency to slip to the side if the blouse isn't firmly tucked in and thus pulled down against the shoulders, but that's how it should be worn anyway, lol.

Chest: 40" (Padding was typical of this era, to create to pigeon breast effect)
Waist: 30"
Hip: 40"
Hem: 40"
**A long, 1910s style corset is recommended, but not necessary.
Sleeves: Full length, 21" front shoulder point.

Thursday, 2 February 2017

1780 "Zone Front" Pierrot Jacket - Pink & Green

Pattern: None. My own drafting.
Fabric: Pink silk/cotton blend faille, medium weight (70%silk, 30% cotton). Green cotton jacquard. 100% cotton gauze for petticoat.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 40/41"
Waist - 34"
Hip - Free
Hem - 40" at front, 42" at sides, 43.5" at back
Back width: 13.5"

Saturday, 28 January 2017

1770s Work "Seersucker" Caraco Jacket - Blue & Red Stripe

Pattern: I draped this pattern myself, though I did take the sleeves from one of the Anglaise dresses shown in The Cut of Women's clothes. 
Fabric: 100% cotton, uncommon seersucker weave. There is much to discuss about this fabric choice, as seersucker is often dismissed as a purely 20th century fabric that did not enter fashion until the 1910s. The weave is actually much older and has documentation in Europe and the American colonies as early as 1694
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 38"
Waist - 32"
Hip - Free
Hem - 36" at front, 38 at sides, 39.5" at back (suited to medium or large bum roll)
Back width - 12" (armhole to armhole)