Saturday, 20 August 2016

Casaquin Jacket - Purple & Green Silk

Pattern: Drafting using the Norah Waugh, Diagram XXX "1760s Jacket" as a base. Petticoat is self drafted.
Fabrics: 100% silk. Main body is a two-tone silk consisting of magenta and deep blue, creating a final "ultraviolet" hue (this is also the name of the thread that matched perfectly, lol). Contrast trim and the stomacher is apple green silk.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *As they are on the dress form pictured
Chest: 39"
Waist: 31"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at sides, 41" at back.
Bicep: 13"
Back Width: 13.5"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Stomacher Length: 12"

1770s Casaquin Jacket - Deep violet silk. The Antique Sewist

Friday, 5 August 2016

Pet en l'air - Silk Taffeta with embroidered stomacher

Pattern: diagram XV "1740s Sack Dress" from Norah Waugh The Cut of Women's Clothes. Cut to Pet en l'air length. Other alterations as well *see further down*
Fabric: 100% Silk taffeta for pet-en-l'air and petticoat. Lining done in 100% cotton.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *Taken as they are on the dress-form
Chest - 42"
Waist - 37"
Hip - Free
Back Width - 14"
Shoulders - 19.5"
Sleeve length (shoulder to back of elbow) - 13.5"
Upper Arm: 16.5" max
*The overall fit of the pet-en-l'air is more relaxed than most. The back width is wider and the shoulders are further forward than typically seen in extant pieces. The dress has been made to be more suited to a modern posture and shape. 

Thursday, 21 July 2016

1870s Truly Victorian Polonaise - Blue & White Cotton

Pattern: Truly Victorian #410 "1873 Polonaise"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, printed, blue/white mini floral print. 100% cotton twill for interfacing. Flat lined in white cotton.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 47" (large cup)
Waist - 37"
Hip - Free
Hem - 40" at front.
Back width - 16"
Shoulders - 20.5"

Saturday, 2 July 2016

1770s Polonaise - Blue & White Stripe Linen

Patterns: Diagram XXI from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh; "1770s Polonaise"
Fabrics: Blue & White stripe linen/cotton blend (yarn dyed, not printed). Cotton muslin lining. Cotton cambric for white trim.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Chest: 42" max
Waist: 32 - 37" (Because this garment is not fitted to the waist and is comprised of a pinned stomacher and petticoat with overlapping side closures, it suits rather a large range on the waist)
Upper Arm: 14"
Armhole: 19"
Neckline: 8" below base of throat
Petticoat Hem: 37" at front, fading up to 40" at center back
Back width (actual garment): 11"
Back width (functional body measurement): 14"

Thursday, 23 June 2016

1788 Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat - Shot silk Taffeta

Patterns: Used as a base for drafting...Bodice from the 1775 Robe a l'Anglaise from Norah Waugh, diagram XXII.
Fabrics: 100% silk Taffeta; an interesting shot silk made up of pink, yellow, and gold threads, resulting in a shifting orange/pink hue (2 yards at 54" for jacket)
               100% linen, white, for lining. 100% cotton, off white, for petticoat.
Available on Etsy HERE
Also available on Ebay HERE

Inspiration: Various jackets of the 1780s and 90s, but also the red and white striped Pierrot jacket from the Kyoto Collection 

Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hem - 40" at front, 42" at sides, 43" at back (cut to fit over large bum roll/rump pad).
Back width - 14"
Bicep, sleeves - 15.5"

Wednesday, 15 June 2016

Pet en l'Air - Beige & Black Silk

Pattern: Norah Waugh, Diagram XV "1740 Sack Dress", from The Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabrics: 100% silk broadcloth (see farther down for discussion of the fabric). Also cotton for the petticoat and linen for the bodice and sleeve linings.

Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Measurements:*due to the nature of this garment, fitting accommodates a small range.
Chest: 36 - 38"
Waist: 29 - 31"
Hip: Free
Back width: 14"
Hem of Petticoat: 39" at front
                            40" at back
                            44" at sides

Tuesday, 7 June 2016

1760 Jacket - Oops! on a Waugh Pattern =/

Pattern: Diagram XXX "Jacket, 1760-1770" from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. **with alterations relating to a HUGE mistake on my part. Full explanation below.
Features: All visible stitching done by hand, including the petticoat hem and the quilting on the stomacher. The jacket has full edge stitching, also done by hand.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Fabrics: Jacket is a very lightweight, almost feather-weight, wool in a kind of mint green/blue (a nightmare for thread matching!). Lining is white linen, 100%. The petticoat is off-white cotton of a very loose weave, rather like lawn. It is a re-purposed fabric, formally living life as drapes, so it has a laundered, lived in feel =)

Measurements: *scaled up from the original piece by at least 5 dress sizes.
Chest: 43-45"
Waist: 36-38"
Back width: 15"
Hem: 40" at front
          42" at back
          44" at sides