Sunday, 29 September 2019

1880s Full Length Coat - TV560

Pattern: Truly Victorian #560 "1880s Late Bustle Coats."
Fabrics: Wool blend, mouse brown.
Cotton flannel interlining, chocolate brown.
Thin sateen (rust orange), and linen blend (oatmeal) for lining.
Collar and facings done in dark brown silk taffeta.

Measurements: This is a coat, an over-garment, so these numbers reflect the measurements to be taken over your clothes.
Chest: 44"
Waist: 35-37" (The coat is only lightly fitted with darts, giving it lots of ease in the torso)
Hip: <55" (Again, lots of built-in ease)
Length (base of throat to hem, front): 52"
Shoulders: 20" across.


This is only the second time I've worked with this pattern, and it's the first time making the full length version. The pattern comes with two collar variations, and two sleeve variations. I chose the turned-down lapel version with the one-piece bell sleeves. I also went with the asymmetrical buttoning shown on the pattern cover art, rather than doing a double-breasted look.

It is a great pattern! All the pieces go together well, the pattern sizing is true and reliable. Because it's so simple, it also lends itself to alterations and being a jumping off point for other garments. I added pockets to this one, hidden in the side seams =)




Saturday, 31 August 2019

1889 Ladies' Plaid Walking Suit

Patterns: TV290 "1889 Draped Skirt", and TV464 "1883 Riding Habit" With alterations to both.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, Shetland Flannel. Dark blue broadcloth for lining.

Measurements:
Chest: 43"
Waist: 34"
Hip: <47"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 15"
Shoulders: 18"
Bicep: 14.5"
Sleeve Length: 23"


Sunday, 25 August 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat

Pattern: Self drafted.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, blue and white stripe print.

Measurements: Pinned closure has a 1.25" front overlap that allows for the size range.
Chest: 35-36"
Waist: 27.5 - 28.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 12.5"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside around elbow): 25"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back
Upper Arm: 12.5" max

Closure Types: Pins on the bodice front. Buttons on the cuffs.


Overview
I went simple with this one, owing mostly to the fabric. I imagine a white apron, something like organza or voile, would look very well over this (I might make one). It's a Pierrot Jacket with front pinning closure and full length sleeves. The sleeves end in Mariner's cuffs with hand-worked buttons and buttonholes. The petticoat is a full width style, three panels coming out to 132".

Tuesday, 20 August 2019

1760s Casaquin With Ruching - Brown Silk

Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on the 1750s Jacket featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh.

Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown. Lining is a mix of blue stripe linen, printed cotton, and tan linen. The hem is faced with hand-dyed indigo cotton.

Measurements:
Chest: 36-37"
Waist: 29-31"
Hem: 38" at front, 41" at back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13" max.
Sleeve: 17" (3/4 length)


Saturday, 27 July 2019

1800 Bib-Front Dress - Silk Organza.

Patterns: Laughing Moon's "Bib-Front" Gown, with some alterations.
Fabrics: 100% silk organza, with a jacquard border weave of flowers in gold/silver metallic threads. Fully lined in gray broadcloth.

Measurements: *Pattern size 20
Chest: 41-43"
Under-bust: 36-38"
Hem: 40.5" at front, 41.75" at back.
Back Width: 14"
Upper Arm: 16" max
Sleeve: 25" (long to give the scrunched up look, popular at the time).


Thursday, 18 July 2019

Caraco a la Polonaise...again.

Pattern: Still tweaking and refining my drafted pattern from the most recent post, with some sleeve variation too.
This dress is currently for sale on Etsy--HERE
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dove gray, with black taffeta waistcoat and accents.

Measurements:
*The laced back of the waistcoat, as well as the style of the polonaise, allows for a range of fit. This is probably one of the reasons it was such a popular "casual" garment for the upper class.
Chest: 38.5-40"
Waist: 33-34.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front, 41" at back (fits over a rump or bum roll)
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13.5"
Sleeve: 23" long

Construction:
All visible stitching done by hand, with machine stitching on inside seams. Hand done buttonholes, wrapped buttons, and lacing eyelets.

Wednesday, 12 June 2019

Caraco a la Polonaise - 1770s Jacket

Pattern: Self drafted, though I referred to two pattern from The Cut of Women's Clothes as a guide when I began; diagrams XXI and XXIII. I also referred to several extant fashion plates.

Fabric: 100% Silk Taffetas, in dark brown, buff, and sage green.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements:
Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 31-32.5"
Back Width: 14"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max.
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back