Sunday, 20 August 2017

Wingeo Regency Era Pelisse & Spencer WN255

Pattern: Wingeo (WN255) "1795 -1825 Regency Era Pelisse & Spencer"
Fabric: Faux silk moire, rayon, in a sea-green color. The dress is 100% cotton with matching bands of the moire on the hem.
Construction: Hand stitched. Spencer lining is assembled, then used as a "foundation" for the jacket to be built upon.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *as taken on the dress form shown
Chest - 45"
Underbust: 41"
Cup Size - Large C to DD
Hem - 45" from underbust at front
Upper Arm - 14" circumference

Thursday, 3 August 2017

Tailor's Guide TG129 - Ladies' Two Jackets

Pattern: Tailor's Guide #129, "Ladies' Two Jackets: Styles 1770-1785". With alterations to the center front closure. This jacket is based on that features in Costume Closeup, from the Snowshill Collection.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, blue damask on white. 100% linen for lining, white.
Alterations?: Yes, to the center front closure only. All other pieces are true to the pattern shapes.
For Sale on Etsy HERE
Measurements: As taken on the dress form shown.
The lacing front closure allows a range of fit above and below these numbers.
Chest - 38"
Waist - 32.5"
Hip - Free
Hem - 38" at front, 41" at back (bum roll)
Back Width - 15" relaxed fit
Bicep - 15" max, relaxed fit.
Back Length: 15" from base of neck to waist.

Construction Methods: 100% hand stitched. Lapped seams, whip stitching, etc.. Edge stitching done in "le point a rabattre sous la main". It seems cumbersome, but the English translation is roughly "Point to the fold under the hand". Yeah...not much better, lol. 

Tuesday, 4 July 2017

Truly Victorian #170 "Victorian Petticoats"

Pattern: Truly Victorian #170, Victorian Petticoats. View 1, early bustle era. Fullest version.
Fabric: Two-tone taffeta, red-green, polyester/rayon blend. Not historically accurate, but at roughly $25 a yard for real silk of a similar weight, I wasn't interested in spending $125 on fabric alone for this ;) LOL

I made the largest size, which according to the pattern comfortably fits waists between 38" and 40".

Truly Victorian #170, View 1, shown over large pillow bustle.

Monday, 5 June 2017

1755 Waistcoat - Margot Hill Pattern

Pattern: 1755 Men's Waistcoat, The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown. Back lining is double layer cotton osnaburg. Front section lining is plain weave cotton and taffeta facings.
Construction: Hand stitched using period methods, including the "Weird running whip-stitch thingy" (this method has a French name, but darned if I can't remember it right now)

With back lacing fully closed
Chest: 40"
Waist: 36"

Note on Photos: I don't have a male display form, so I'm forced to improvise by using a small female dress form and then stuffing it with poly-fill, LOL. Not the best, but it's what I have at the moment. 

Wednesday, 31 May 2017

1760s Casaquin - Brown Silk & Winged Cuffs

Pattern: Started with the "1760 Jacket" Diagram XXX, from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes, with heavy alterations. Cuffs, stomacher, and petticoat are self drafted.
Fabric: 100% Silk taffeta, Dark Chocolate Brown, for the jacket. Brick red linen/cotton blend for the stomacher and petticoat. Jacket lining is tan ramie linen, also called grass linen.

SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE
Chest: 34" - 35.5"
Waist: 26 - 27.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40" at front, increasing to 43" at back (should be worn over a bumroll)
Back Width: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Shoulders: 16"

1760s Casaquin Jacket with large Winged Cuffs

Saturday, 27 May 2017

Tailor's Guide Riding Habit - Brown Silk Taffeta

Pattern: Tailor's Guide "Riding Habit", with alterations.
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown (not blue. Damn camera...). Lining is done in a ramie linen (grass linen) and Tencel blend.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE
Chest - 36.5"
Waist - 31"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40" at front, 43" at back (cut for bumroll)
Back Width: 14"
Bicep: 15" max
Sleeve: 22" from top of armhole seam to cuff

 So continues my ongoing battle against photography ignorance. Ugh! Every time I take pictures out doors, I can't seem to get the colors to show true. The picture below, taken indoors, is a much better representation of the true colors. Antique gold trims with dark chocolate brown silk. The outdoor pictures are skewed blue, for some damn reason, and I could not get them to correct =/

Tuesday, 18 April 2017

1775 Orange Stripe Caraco - Pet-en-l'air Style

Patterns: J.P Ryan "Pet-en-l'air" pattern, altered.
Fabrics: 100% Cotton; cream with orange and dark grey stripes. Cotton osnaburg lining.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 38-41
Waist: 33 - 36
Upper arm: <14.5"

Construction Details:
Hand stitched in all visible areas. I only used machine stitching on inside seams. Also handmade eyelets for the front lining lacing.
The ruching on the stomacher has scalloped cut edges.
Lining has size adjustment options at center front and center back. The front laces closed and the center back has ties.