Monday, 12 February 2018

Making a Continental Army Uniform - What it Takes

The single biggest reason I don't make very much men's clothing, and vehemently avoid making uniforms from almost any era pre WWI, is the cost. Unlike civilian garb, which can be made of an almost limitless variety of accurate materials, uniforms have a very narrow window of "correct". As much I adore researching 18th and 19th century cultural history, I still cannot understand the mentality that existed behind making these uniforms so ornate and--by extension--expensive. A garment that men were going to live in for months or years, that would be drudged through rivers and mud and blood... and it's covered with no less than 45 expensive brass buttons, contrasting lapels and skirt flaps that serve no purpose but to add another expense of wool fabric. It simply boggles the mind. I try to imagine the kind of discussion around something like this.

Military Official:
We need a uniform for our war of independence from the decadent and greedy British who have been taxing us to death. Men will die in this garment for our freedom!

Guy Who Is About To Add an Expensive Line Item to the War Budget: Buttons. Tons of buttons that don't actually button anything closed. Oh! And a flashy contrast, you confuse the enemy.

Tuesday, 5 December 2017

Early Regency Dress - Indian Silk Sari

Patterns: I used a combination of the robe and underdress patterns for the 1795 woman's ensemble in Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 - 1930, by Margot Hill and Peter Bucknell. The underdress is sleeveless, but I used the robe sleeves with some alterations.
Available on Etsy HERE

Fabric: 100% silk, lightweight, taken from a vintage Indian sari. Total fabric used was 5.6 yards at 44" wide.

*This dress has drawstring closures at the neckline and waist in both the back and front, making it very accommodating to variations in bust and under-bust sizes. 
Chest: 37-41" (39" shown in the pictures)
Underbust: Practically OS (35" shown in the pictures)
Hem: 43" from under-bust.
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve length: 14" from top of armhole seam.
Shoulder strap (stationary, ungathered area): 10" from back shoulder seam to beginning of front gathered neckline.
Shoulder strap width: 3"

Friday, 24 November 2017

1860s Bolero Jacket Set - Pink & Brown

Patterns: Truly Victorian #441 - Garibaldi Blouse
           Truly Victorian #440 - Pagoda bodice (sleeves only)
           Truly Victorian #444 - Spanish Jacket (bodice only)

Fabrics: 100% cotton gauze for the blouse and sash, dark brown. The skirt and jacket are 100% cotton calico in a dark pink and brown pattern.

Chest: 44" max
Waist: 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 43"

Sunday, 19 November 2017

1894 Navy Wool Blouse Set

Patterns: Skirt is Butterick 3418. Blouse is a combination of Truly Victorian 494, Truly Victorian 495 - view 3, and my own alterations.

Fabric: Medium weight 80/20 blend wool, plain weave. Lining is white cotton.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 44"
Waist: 36"
Hip: <52"
Hem: 41" at front, 43" at back.

Friday, 3 November 2017

1500 Images of My Past Work!

I've learned that once you've been on the internet long enough, it becomes like a closet in the real world. You start stumbling across old things you forgot you bought or did. I completely forgot about my old Flickr account. I stopped updating it once I decided a blog was more what I needed, as opposed to a simple image dump.

More than 1500 images of my past work, mostly Victorian, but including pieces from many time periods. Take a look! I am slowly, but surely, downloading the photos to my new computer. I thought most of them were lost forever when my old computer died.

The Antique Sewist - Flickr Page

Monday, 30 October 2017

1750s Casaquin Jacket - Yellow & Blue Brocade

Pattern: Diagram XXX from The Cut of Women's Clothes, used as a base, but with the front altered to use a stomacher.
Previous Use: Yes. I've finally perfectly my drafting of this pattern, after months of tweaking and reshaping to accommodate modern figures. The original pattern is very petite, with the torso length being incredibly short. You can see the progress of my use of this pattern with the following posts:
Casaquin Jacket - Purple and Green Silk
1760s Casaquin - Brown Silk and Winged Cuffs
1750s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Floral Cotton

Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 26-28"
Back Width: 12.5"
Bicep: 13.5"
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back.

Sunday, 29 October 2017

1750s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Floral Cotton

Pattern: Diagram XXX from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh, used as a base.
Previous Use?: Yes. I have made this same jacket style using the same pattern before when I made the Brown Taffeta Casaquin. The sizing is the same as well (I have yet to draft out this pattern into a larger size).

Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 26-28"
Hip: Free
Bicep: 13" Max
Back Width (between armhole seams): 12.5"
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (cut for bumroll).