Thursday, 19 January 2017

1885 Blue & Black Stripe Suit

Patterns: Truly Victorian 460 Bodice (altered), TV #364 Overskirt, TV #261 Skirt, TV #104 Collars/Chemisettes
Fabric: Navy blue with black herringbone stripe, smooth faux silk. Bodice lining is yellow satin.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements (as shown in photos):
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hip - <50"
Hem: 40" at front
Back width: 16"
Sleeve - 22.5"
Neck (chemisette) - 15"

**This dress is show over a crescent pillow bustle of my own design. 

Monday, 16 January 2017

1885 Yellow & Black Plaid Suit

Patterns: Truly Victorian 460 (heavily altered), with folding collar taken from Truly Victorian 428. Skirt is Truly Victorian 261, with the back panel flipped so that the curve it at the top waistband and the hem is straight.
Fabric: Silk/cotton blend, though I can't be certain. I'm certain it is mostly silk, with the second fiber being something natural. The burn tests were non-melting, grey ash with the scent of burning hair, which matches silk.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements:
Chest - 43" max
Waist - 34" max
Hip - 50" max
Hem - 40" at front
Back Width - 16"





 


The black satin portion is a plastron with a full collar and ties securing it around the waist and underbust.
















Tuesday, 10 January 2017

Hood & Capelet. Update on the FOTGA pattern - Black linen & Paisley

Pattern: My own redraft of the Cashmere hood taken from Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II (see previous post about the original pattern)
Fabric: 100% linen, heavy weight. 100% cotton lining, paisley print. Interlining is cotton flannel.
**Care notes: Machine washable. Hang dry or tumble dry with low heat. 
Measurements:
Essentially one-size-fits all, though a very small wearer might find the neckline too large. The capelet is cut as a true circle, so it will lay over any shoulder width.
Available on Etsy HERE
Construction Features:
The capelet hem is hand bound in matching linen, no visible stitches.
The hood and capelet linings are hand whip-stitched at the neckline.
Hidden snaps secure down the point of the hood and the front folds on the hood opening.
The point of the hood is decorated with two black faux-fur balls.


The pointed hood is held down with a small snap that can be undone when the hood is lowered or i the wearer wants the pointed look =)


Friday, 30 December 2016

Fashions of the Gilded Age - "Cashmere and Satin Hood" Red Velvet

Pattern: "Cashmere and satin hood," reprinted in Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II, p.80.
Fabrics: Red "Premier velvet", FD-6000 grade (how I wish this stuff was still widely available!). Black satin lining. White cotton flannel interlining.




Tuesday, 20 December 2016

1750s Anglaise with Robings - Red & Gold

**Note: I decided to post all the photos for this post at original 
size, which may be difficult to view on phones and tablets
Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown", with significant alterations.
Fabric: 100% cotton, medium/heavy weight (lighter than canvas, heavier than calico). Gold and Red damask print. 8 yards at 54" used in total, gown and petticoat.
This dress is available to buy on Etsy HERE


Measurements:
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 28-29.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 11" (18th c. style, of course)

Wednesday, 7 December 2016

1760s Casaquin -or- How to make an 18th century Dress From a Single Indian Sari

Pattern: None. Self drafted to mimic styles in extant fashion plates and garments.
Fabric: 100% silk, Indian, made from a single 5 meter sari.
             Interlining of cotton twill, medium weight.
             Lining of cotton osnaburg, unbleached.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *this garment utilizes a pinned stomacher closure and has a moderate ease of fit.
Chest: 34-35"
Waist: 27-28.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40.5" at back. Cut to fit over large bum roll.
Back width: 11.5" (18th c. silhouette, shoulders thrown back more than typical of modern figures)
Upper Arm Circ.: 13" max.

Closure Method: Spiral lacing at front, covered by pinned stomacher. Jacket edges are then pinned to  the stomacher to conceal.

**The rest of the finished garment images begin about half way down the post

Sunday, 27 November 2016

1770s "ribbon candy" Anglaise - Larkin & Smith English Gown Pattern

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" is the base, though the fronts are altered to have a closed front rather than a stomacher, and the robings have been omitted
Fabric: Cotton blend, cream, with narrow stripes of purple, blue, red, and green.
             White cotton for lining, bodice and sleeves only.
Undergarments: Dress form torso padded to reflect general shaping of 18th century stays. Foundation item is a large crescent bum roll (see further down).

Measurements: 
Chest: 43"
Waist: 35"
Hip: free
Hem: 40" at front, 10" drag at back. *hem is shaped to accommodate a bum roll.

Construction Notes: Hand stitched