Thursday, 6 February 2020

18th c. Riding Habit - Red Velvet

Patterns: JP Ryan riding habit, with alterations.
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, red. 100% silk, white. 100% linen, plaid.

Measurements: *Pattern size 8
Chest: 34"
Waist: 26.5"
Back Width: 13"
Armhole, waistcoat: 19"
Upper Arm: 12.5" max
Hem: 39" at front, 41.5" at back.


An 18th century ladies' riding habit done in cotton velvet and fully lined in oatmeal & green plaid linen. Functional pockets and full length sleeves with fitted cuffs. The waistcoat is white silk jacquard with tiny raised diamonds. All top stitching is done by hand, including buttonholes. The buttons are hand worked over wood molds in the HA manner with tissue weight silk taffeta, deep red. The jacket is shown open in all the pictures, but hooks and eyes allow it to be fully closed as well.

Friday, 24 January 2020

1780 Men's Waistcoat - Silk Taffeta

Pattern: The 1780 waistcoat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill.
Fabrics: 100% Taffeta, gold and autumn tones. 100% linen, light weight, rust color.

Measurements:
Chest: 39"
Waist: 32.5"
Hip: <40"


SummaryThe is the second waistcoat I've made from the Margot Hill book. The first was the 1755 Waistcoat. Like all the patterns in this book, it suits a slim figure. The design is also a bit unusual. The book sets it from 1780, but it feels a bit later. Perhaps better suited the transitional period between Rococo and Regency, like 1790s. The length and cut away style are 18th century, while the lapels and double breast upper section feel much later.

1780 waistcoat, from The Evolution of Fashion.

Thursday, 23 January 2020

1740s Style Caraco Jacket - Costume

Patterns: Self drafted, based on a jacket from 1750.
Fabrics: Poly blend brocade, damask pattern. Blue and gold.

Measurements:
Chest: 37-38"
Waist: 30-32"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14.5"
Shoulders: 17"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Hem length: 39" at front and back.
Hem Circumference: 120"

I made this jacket by using the "Gabriella" casaquin pattern I drafted last year, but with the length extended six inches. The sleeves have hanging cuffs, and the closure is at the front with a stomacher and pins (silver or gold headed pins practically vanish into the fabric pattern). 

The construction techniques, patterns, etc. are historically accurate, but the fabric is a poly blend brocade. Due to that, this won't stand up to snuff for historically accuracy, but it's great for stage use, masquerade, etc.

All visible stitching is done by hand, including the hem, and the stomacher is stiffened with two layers of linen buckram. The closure is done by pinning the stomacher to the stays, then pinning the jacket edges to the stomacher down the sides. Large gold or silver headed pins are best. 

Friday, 17 January 2020

1810 Block-Printed Silk Crepe Dress

Patterns: A mix of Laughing Moon's Bib-Front Dress, and self drafting.

Fabric: 100% silk crepe, block printed. Taken from a vintage Indian Sari.

MEASUREMENTS:
Chest: 40-43 (drawstring front allows cup size adjustment).
Under-Bust: 36"
Hip: <50"
Hem Length (from the underbust): 42" at front, 43.5" at back.
Hem circumference: 110"
Back Width: 14.5"
Sleeve Length: 26" (the bunched up sleeve look was quite popular).

All visible stitching is done by hand. There is machine stitching on inner seams.



Friday, 3 January 2020

(Another) 1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: 1815 Ladies' Hat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill. With alterations.

Fabrics: 100% silk, buttercup yellow and indigo blue. Faux flowers and an ostrich plume.


Making up the 1815 hat again, but with some alterations this time. I changed the shape of the crown to be the same height back and front, and did a gathered covering rather than flat. I used all the same general construction methods:
  • double layer heavy buckram for the base.
  • cotton flannel for the mull layers
  • steel wiring around the brim, crown base and top, and vertically around the crown.
  • assembly done all with hand stitching, no glue. 

Monday, 30 December 2019

1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: The 1815 Ladies' hat, produced in 1/8th scale in The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter Bucknell

Fabric/Materials: 100% silk taffeta, black. Heavy weight cotton buckram. Cotton flannel for mull.

This style hat perches on the head rather than fitting down snug, so sizing is really OSFA adults.



The hat is made with a base of heavy cotton buckram, double layer. The frame is wired around the brim, the top and bottom of the crown, and vertically around the crown in 5 places. The outer fabric, lining, and ribbon ties are all the same black silk taffeta. A decorate black rope is fixed around the crown and tied in a bow at the back.

The hat is entirely hand stitched. I only used glue to apply the flannel mull layers to the buckram, which is historically accurate.

Thursday, 26 December 2019

1770 Mens Frock Coat - JP Ryan

Pattern: JP Ryan "1770 Frock Coat"
Fabric: Cotton/wool blend brocade featuring  two shades of blue and cream "crosses" at the diamond intersections.

Measurements: As taken on the form.
Chest: 42/43"*
Back Width: 17"
Shoulders: 21"
Bicep: 15" max
Back Length (from collar seam): 41"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"

*This frock coat style is designed to be open at the front, curving away to show a waistcoat. The buttons & buttonholes are decorative only. This allows some ease in the wearer's size.