Monday 26 July 2021

1790s Round Gown - Brown Embroidered cotton (with sleeveless bolero)

Patterns: Laughing Moon #133 Robe en Chemise with significant alterations and construction changes. I basically used it as my jumping off point. 

Fabrics: 100% cotton batiste, embroidered, dark brown. Linen/cotton blend for lining, also dark brown. Bolero is 100% silk, mini stripe in coral and cream.  

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the hem and drawstring channels. 

Measurements (gown only): *Style allows for a lot of wiggle room in the chest, underbust, and waist.
Chest: 34-38"
Underbust: 30-34"
Waist: Pretty much free, would work as maternity wear. 
Hip: Free
Back Width: 13.5" 
Hem Length: 41" at front from natural waist. About 44" from the underbust seam. 4" longer at the back. 
Hem Width: 180" very fully. 

Measurements (bolero): *with center front fully laced closed
Chest: 36"
Underbust: 32/33"





Wednesday 7 July 2021

1760s Riding Habit, or "sporting" ensemble

 Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit for the coat. The waistcoat and petticoat and self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, gold, for the petticoat and waistcoat. The coat is 100% wool, lightweight and with a very tight weave and smooth finish. The coat is lined with indigo blue cotton and a gray/green plaid linen. 

Measurements: Made the pattern size 10 with no alterations to fit. Patterns runs true in this size
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (shown over a split rump)
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 13.5" max
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18"
Back Width (Between armhole seams on Coat): 12.5"


Once again, J.P Ryan's riding habit pattern proves to be the best available =)
I changed the orientation of the pockets and the flaps for preference, but other than that there were no changes to the pattern itself. The instructions are more modern, but if you're familiar with 18th century construction techniques, it's nothing to just assemble it the way you want. 

The "Sporting Ensemble"?
I've seen many images, especially paintings, or so-called riding habits that really didn't look feasible for a woman to be wearing on actual horseback. I think riding ensembles were quite popular for other outdoor activities, like lawn games, picnicking, etc. I got my impression here from a fashion plate that indicated a silk taffeta petticoat with a riding coat. I can't imagine anyone would attempt to ride a horse in a taffeta petticoat! That would be the worst fabric imaginable for that purpose, so it was definitely the riding habit "look", but not the function. 

[of course we do this today as well. It's common for people to wear yoga gear when they do not and have no intention of doing yoga =P]