Sunday, 15 July 2018

Regency Bib Front Dress - Yellow Silk

Patterns: Laughing Moon #126, view B bodice with view A sleeves.
Fabric: 100% silk, 100% cotton lining.

Measurements: *pattern size 18
Chest: 40"
Under-bust: 35"
Back width: 13"
Back width (garment, between armhole seams): 10.5"
Sleeve: 21" on short inside curve.

Pattern Notes
This is an amazing pattern and I highly recommend it to everyone. The price can feel a bit steep ($18, plus shipping), but it's worth it. The pattern comes with sizes 4 through 34 (so many good historical patterns top out at a 20 or 22) in one envelope. The lines are very closely marked, so you will want to invest in a roll of tracing paper.

The fit is very true to what is written on the pattern. I made a size 18 and it came out to a 35" under-bust and 40" bust, just like the chart said. The under-bust measurement is very important! Because this garment has openings on the sides, you need an appropriate amount of overlap there to cover it up. If you cut out a size too small for your under-bust, the overlap will be too small and there will be gaping.

In fact, if you're nervous about gaping at the sides (like me) cut the back skirt piece large on the side seam and attach it to the bodice an inch of so further to the front than marked. This will give you a deeper overlap. Also, very light-weight fabrics that "float" are kind of bad at hiding those side openings.

(above) Shows the side with the front portion overlapping at the side, with the tie going toward the back.
(below) with the front bodice dropped down you can better see the overlap.

I did make a few fit alterations. I shortened the skirt panels by 2.25", and I attached the back of the skirt is a different manner than the pattern specified. The skirt back panel is marked with very specific pleats, which are good if you want to pleat up the back of the skirt before attaching it to the bodice.

I followed the marked pleat guides for the sides of the skirt panels (because those specific pleats and their locations are important or masking the side opening. However, once I got to the center back where it was just going to be a bunch of center-back facing pleats, I did something different:

(above) I made a 1" pleat toward the center back, then marking out a deep pleat going the other way. The rest of the skirt back was then gathered so that it would lay on top of this pleat. This allowed the heavily fathered portion to bounce out away from the body and crate that historically accurate silhouette. I got the idea for this "gathers over box pleat" method from the regency era pelisse featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes. In that diagram, you can see the markings on the skirt back which lead to this result (see picture after next).

And now, the rest of the pictures:

The front bodice is attached with thread loops and Dorset buttons

Tuesday, 10 July 2018

1885 Indigo Cotton Dinner Dress

Patterns: TV261 Skirt, TV382 "Asymmetrical Add-on" Over-skirt, TV460 Bodice.
Fabrics: Waverly homespun collection cotton, indigo blue. Chemisette is salvaged antique net lace.

Chest: 35"
Waist: 27.5"
Hip: <38"
Hem: 40" at front.

Friday, 29 June 2018

Regency Mameluke Sleeve Dress w/ Jumper

Patterns: None. Self drafted.
Fabric: 100% cotton voile, white. 100% polyester faux silk, emerald green.

Chest: 39"
Waist: 34"
Hem: 38" from underbust

Simplicity 8579 Panniers or Pocket Hoops

Pattern: Simplicity 8579, panniers.
Fabric: Cotton broadcloth.
Boning: Size 8 round reed.

I made the pattern size 16, designated for a 30" waist and 40" hip.

Simplicity 8579 panniers- with tulle addition

Sunday, 17 June 2018

1886 Purple & Black Jacquard Day Dress

Patterns: Truly Victorian #460 Cuirass Bodice (with alterations). Truly Victorian #365 August Overskirt.
Fabrics: Black satin and purple cotton jacquard. Black satin lining.

Chest: 38"
Waist: 29"
Hip: <42"
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 14" max
Back Width: 14.5"
Hem: 41" at front.

I kept this one relatively simple, making few alterations to the patterns. I made no changes to the overskirt pattern except to add small fitting darts to the side-front sections, to accommodate for a larger hip. I made similar changes to the bodice, extending the outward curve at he hem for a wider hip and scooping the center front to allow for a bit of a "pouch" in the belly (I think most of the TV bodice patterns require this alterations. They are straight at the center front and too narrow in the hip. I also altered the collar to be offset and close with a button.

Thursday, 29 March 2018

1780s "Gabriella" Caraco Jacket - Blue Chintz

Pattern: Self Draft Jacket I've finally labeled the "Gabriella". Giving them names is really making it easier to keep my photo files organized, lol.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, dark blue with floral print. 100% silk lining, ice blue. 100% linen, partial lining. Petticoat is 100% cotton, white.

Measurements: *Lacing front allows for a range of fit.
Chest..............40.5 - 42.5"
Waist.............32 - 35.5"
Hem..............38" front, 41.5" back (to be worn with a bumroll)
Back Width...15" max
Bicep.............14.5" max

Thursday, 22 March 2018

1805 Black Stripe Dress with Silk Bodice

Pattern: Self Drafting
Fabrics: Black cotton with a sateen vertical stripe. 100% silk satin, vintage, with Asian leaf pattern. Dark blue linen for bodice lining.

Measurements: *drawstrings and lacing give this ensemble some range of fit.
Chest: 35-37"
Under-bust (bodice): 32-34"
Back Width: 12.5"-14"
Sleeve Bicep: 14" max

Tuesday, 20 March 2018

Simple Regency Spencer Jacket - Purple Silk

Pattern: Self-draft.
Fabrics: 100% silk, woven, with jacquard stripes. Body is lined in cream cotton print. Sleeves lined in dark gold silk.
Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *underbust band has a drawstring channel hidden in it, allowing it to be cinched down smaller.
Bust: 38" max
Underbust: 35" max
Sleeve: 26.5" front top of shoulder. Meant to be worn to the knuckles, scrunched up along arms.
Bicep: 13" max
Forearm: 11" max
Back Width: 13.5" between armhole seams.

Sunday, 18 March 2018

Blue Wool Casaquin Jacket - 1770

Pattern: Started with the 1750 jacket from Norah Waugh, diagram XXX; really just a base, as I thin altered it drastically.
Fabrics: 100% wool, blue with a green tinge; tiny vertical ribs. 100% silk taffeta, yellow gold, with stripe pattern of light green and cream. 100% silk jacket lining, dark gold. Linen buckram for stomacher interfacings.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *Jacket has a lacing closure, allowing for an ease of fit. 
Chest: 38/39"
Waist: 31/32"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 41" at back (tbw with a bumroll).
Sleeve: 19" inside curve.
Bicep: 15" max.
Forearm: 12.5" max.
Wrist: 8" (can be altered by shifting buttons)
Back Width: 13.5", across shoulder blades between armhole seams.