Thursday, 21 January 2016

1886 High Neck Day Dress - Truly Victorian "Late Bustle" Patterns

Patterns: Skirt: Truly Victorian #261
                Over-skirt: Truly Victorian #364 "1886 Autumn Overskirt"
                Bodice (body): Truly Victorian #400 "1885 Cuirass Bodice"
                Bodice (sleeves): Truly Victorian #466 "Alexandra Bodice"
Fabrics: Maroon colored basic flat weave, "fiber content unknown." I suspect a high rayon content because of how soft and drapey it is.
              The black on the skirt and lining for the over skirt is loose weave georgette.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Final Garment Measurements:
Chest: 42"
Waist: 32"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 40" at front
Neck circumference: 15.5"
Back width: 15.5"


 ~Alterations~
I added trims of my own making to the underskirt and sleeve cuffs, but that does not really constitute an alterations of the pattern. The only true alterations I made were the shape of the high standing collar and the length of the overskirt.

I increased the height of the standing collar by about 5/8" and remove the curved leading edge that made it a "Mandarin" collar. I also added buttons to the high collar.


Note the many tiny bridal buttons at the front. I completely lucked out with this color match. I purchased a huge lot of buttons on ebay a long time ago, and about a hundred of them just happened to match this maroon fabric almost perfectly! =D

As for the overskirt, I wanted more of my hem work on the underskirt to show, so I shortened the overskirt by 6". This necessitated removing the bottom swag pleat on the front section.


~Boning~
The bodice contains ten bones, 4 on the front darts and 6 on the side and back seams. I used 3/8" heavy duty nylon for the flat bones and 1/4" spiral steal for the curved side-back seams. It's always tempting to not bone a bodice. I tell myself, "the wearer will have a corset anyway!" But,it really does make all the difference =)


Sleeves: The #400 pattern from Truly Victorian has sleeves with a more pronounced shoulder puff than I wanted. So, I decided to sub them out with the sleeves from TV #466. I really like the top shaping of the #466 sleeves.

At the cuff I added a double ruching and a ruffle of black embroidered cotton lace.






The bodice is fully interfaced in twill and fully lined in black rayon lining. I know, I know....rayon is hardly the historically accurate thing, but I just like it. There's nothing better than rayon lining against the skin! =)





2 comments: