1886 High Neck Day Dress - Truly Victorian "Late Bustle" Patterns

Patterns: Skirt: Truly Victorian #261
                Over-skirt: Truly Victorian #364 "1886 Autumn Overskirt"
                Bodice (body): Truly Victorian #400 "1885 Cuirass Bodice"
                Bodice (sleeves): Truly Victorian #466 "Alexandra Bodice"
Fabrics: Maroon colored basic flat weave, "fiber content unknown." I suspect a high rayon content because of how soft and drapey it is.
              The black on the skirt and lining for the over skirt is loose weave georgette.

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Available on Ebay HERE

Final Garment Measurements:
Chest: 42"
Waist: 32"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 40" at front
Neck circumference: 15.5"
Back width: 15.5"

 ~Alterations~
I added trims of my own making to the underskirt and sleeve cuffs, but that does not really constitute an alterations of the pattern. The only true alterations I made were the shape of the high standing collar and the length of the overskirt.

I increased the height of the standing collar by about 5/8" and remove the curved leading edge that made it a "Mandarin" collar. I also added buttons to the high collar.

Note the many tiny bridal buttons at the front. I completely lucked out with this color match. I purchased a huge lot of buttons on ebay a long time ago, and about a hundred of them just happened to match this maroon fabric almost perfectly! =D

As for the overskirt, I wanted more of my hem work on the underskirt to show, so I shortened the overskirt by 6". This necessitated removing the bottom swag pleat on the front section.

~Boning~
The bodice contains ten bones, 4 on the front darts and 6 on the side and back seams. I used 3/8" heavy duty nylon for the flat bones and 1/4" spiral steal for the curved side-back seams. It's always tempting to not bone a bodice. I tell myself, "the wearer will have a corset anyway!" But,it really does make all the difference =)

Sleeves: The #400 pattern from Truly Victorian has sleeves with a more pronounced shoulder puff than I wanted. So, I decided to sub them out with the sleeves from TV #466. I really like the top shaping of the #466 sleeves.

At the cuff I added a double ruching and a ruffle of black embroidered cotton lace.

The bodice is fully interfaced in twill and fully lined in black rayon lining. I know, I know....rayon is hardly the historically accurate thing, but I just like it. There's nothing better than rayon lining against the skin! =)