Monday, 30 October 2017

1750s Casaquin Jacket - Yellow & Blue Brocade

Pattern: Diagram XXX from The Cut of Women's Clothes, used as a base, but with the front altered to use a stomacher.
Previous Use: Yes. I've finally perfectly my drafting of this pattern, after months of tweaking and reshaping to accommodate modern figures. The original pattern is very petite, with the torso length being incredibly short. You can see the progress of my use of this pattern with the following posts:
Casaquin Jacket - Purple and Green Silk
1760s Casaquin - Brown Silk and Winged Cuffs
1750s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Floral Cotton

Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 26-28"
Back Width: 12.5"
Bicep: 13.5"
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back.

Pattern Notes
As you may have noticed if you checked out the other casaquin jackets I have linked above, I've made this jacket is the exact same size again. This is because I have yet to grade up this pattern to a larger size.

As I learn more about pattern grading, I've noticed that the two main methods (Slash & Spread, and Shift) are not fool proof, especially if you're dealing with a pattern that have vertical and horizontal seams, as this one does. I have to manually tweak and test every upgrading size I make for this pattern, so it will take some time. Eventually, I'm hoping to have this pattern is a full size-chart spread so I can more easily make it as a custom piece for any customer. =)

Fabric Notes
The yellow floral stripe is a 100% cotton brocade, for which I have found plenty of extant pieces to back up the weaving method and general design. In fact, a simple one way stripe with small, rough flowers would have been one of the easier brocades to make in the 18th century and would have been on the lower end of the price scale (well, low end for brocades, which in general would have been pretty expensive compared to standard weaves).

 (Above) A mid 18th century dress showing a complex brocade weave of flowers, stripes, and ribbons.
(Below) This blue sack gown is silk, but the weaving method is what I would like to point out. Brocade with multiple stripes, and flowers.

(below) This is actually showing an 18th century drape, rather than an article of clothing, but people didn't make much of a distinction between upholstery fabrics and garment fabric at that time, especially not with silks. This fabric could have been used to make a dress just as easily and window dressing.

Jacket Notes
I lined the jacket in white 100% linen. The stomacher is interfaced with linen buckram and lined with green cotton (I would have loved to line it with the same red linen and the petticoat, or even just white linen, but I had no a scrap left. I really used every inch of fabric on this one, lol).

The petticoat is red linen, again.

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