Thursday, 29 March 2018

1780s "Gabriella" Caraco Jacket - Blue Chintz

Pattern: Self Draft Jacket I've finally labeled the "Gabriella". Giving them names is really making it easier to keep my photo files organized, lol.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, dark blue with floral print. 100% silk lining, ice blue. 100% linen, partial lining. Petticoat is 100% cotton, white.

Measurements: *Lacing front allows for a range of fit.
Chest..............40.5 - 42.5"
Waist.............32 - 35.5"
Hip................Free
Hem..............38" front, 41.5" back (to be worn with a bumroll)
Back Width...15" max
Bicep.............14.5" max


~The Pattern~
I have been working on this pattern for some time, and now that I have it drafted and graded in two sizes to my satisfaction I've decided to name it the Gabriella. I not sure why, but the name just kept coming to me while I was working, lol. Anyway, it will also make referencing the jacket much easier than making vague references to "1770s jacket thingy".

The pattern is comprised of 7 pieces:
Front, side, lower side (peplum portion), side-back, back, undersleeve, outersleeve. 
The side pieces has a curved horizontal seam at the waist where the peplum attached. This is the only area with a waist seam. It really help with the smooth jut over the hips. I took this from the XXX diagram "1750 jacket" featured in the Norah Waugh book The Cut of Women's Clothes. The rest of the pattern is my own drafting.

This jacket as an open front with lacing over a matching stomacher, but my pattern also has a closed front option I haven't used yet.

~Lining~
I have this jacket in an earlier version--1750s-1770--and a later version, after 1775. For the later version I cut the bottom 1.25" shorter. Since I made this jacket with the shorter length, the lining would be visible at times and I wanted something finer and complimentary. I went with an ice blue silk, rather lightweight. 



The back portions I did in medium weight unbleached linen. I wanted something a bit more substatial underneath those back seams on the body.


The lining for the sleeves is slipstitched in place over the armhole seams. Raw edges were common in the 18th century---tbh, the inside of women's garments were kind of a crazy nightmare of jigsaw piecing and raw edges, even on fine court gowns--but I'm not a fan of it myself. Also, it wouldn't be a good idea to bring garments with raw edges and loose whipstitching to the dry-cleaner.


Finished












(above) Sleeves have a sharp pivot at the shoulder seams. This is an 18th century characteristic of sleeves that I have always liked. I've even incorporated it into some modern clothes to give them a unique flair.


(above) Petticoat back.












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