Saturday, 10 November 2018

1872 Carriage Bodice - Red Homespun Cotton

Patterns: Truly Victorian #402 "Carriage Bodice"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, homespun, in deep red. Cotton twill interfacing. Black broadcloth lining.

Measurements: *I cut the pattern at a size H, but there are the final measurements I got.
Chest: 42"
Waist: 34.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 16"
Shoulders: 19" across back of neck.
Bicep: 16" max.

The TV402 "Carriage Bodice" is one of the new pattern from Truly Victorian. It's in the Early Bustle category, most appropriate to the early 1870s. This is my first time making it, so I went ahead with no alterations and did not do a mock-up in order to gauge how well the size chart reflects the final product.

I cut my pieces to a size H, which according to the Truly Victorian size chart comes out to roughly a 44" chest and 36" waist. My end result was a good full size smaller than this, at a 42" chest and 34" waist. Now, this is my first time making it and I'm using a new sewing machine I have yet to get used to, so it's possible I flubbed up on my seam allowances (TV uses 1/2" seam allowances, and if you overshoot that by just a little on all seams, you will end up a size smaller!). So, I'm not going to declare the sizing is off. It was most likely my seam allowances to blame.

But, aside from any potential issue of sizing, I love everything else about this pattern. The elegant shape of the sleeves, the shorter length of the back that then swoops down to those side points. It's a very flattering design and the side vents make this a bodice that will be quite comfortable for those will more prominent hips.

One note on the collar, though: This pattern does not include a collar of any kind. My addition of the ruffled collar is not part of the pattern.
The two options are a moderate V-neck or a high round, often referred to in the modern fashion industry as a Jewel neckline. If you would like to add a standing collar of some kind--I mix and match pattern pieces in the TV catalog all the time--I recommend adding just a bit to the seam around the neck to make it a tad smaller, maybe a 1/4". That way, your standing collar won't be resting too far away from your neck and looking like a costume (high collars that aren't tight enough are, in my opinion, one of the #1 things that ruin a period look and making it look "costumey").

Construction Notes
That long front dart that goes right down the center of those sharp points can be an area of frustration. I highly recommend cutting off your interfacing down at the point so it's just barely out of the seam allowance. You need to reduce bulk at the sharp points as much as you can (this pattern won't work well for thick fabric because of those points).

And once again, me and my camera battle to 
take a decent pictures of anything red. These 
pictures may look more magenta, but the color
is a deep rose red. 

1 comment:

  1. Thank you so much for posting these photos! I'm using the same pattern right now, and these photos have been such a great resource for me. :)