Monday, 3 June 2019

1850s Garibaldi Blouse & Bolero Set

Patterns: Jacket and Blouse from Truly Victorian Patterns. Skirt is self drafted.
Fabrics: Blouse is tissue weight linen. Jacket and Skirt are cotton with a check/grid pattern in brown.

Chest: 42-44"
Waist: 33-34.5 (adjustable by moving the hook placements at back)
Neck: 15" max
Hip: free
Hem: 42.5" (over a moderate hoop skirt)
Back Width: 16"
Upper Arm: 16" max

I have made both of these pattern many times, and I didn't do any significant alterations to them this time.

One thing I will point out for the Bolero jacket sleeves: If you are doing the optional cap sleeve, as I did, the instructions say the seam of the cap sleeve will fall "in the middle of the undersleeve", but should also line up to the center bottom of the armhole. It doesn't. The middle of the underseleeve is much further back than the middle-bottom of the armhole. I recommend placing the seam further forward, so it is closer to the undersleeve front seam. This way it will fall at the center bottom of the armhole like it's supposed to.

If you are using a heavier fabric, I also recommend not lining the sleeve cap. It adds too much bulk at the armhole seam.

The Skirt is a simple 5 yard rectangle pleated to a waistband. The pleating faces toward the center front and center back, with the directions changing at the sides to create a box pleat. Although, the fabric I used is a vintage cotton only 36" wide, so I had to use 5 panels in order to get the necessary width.

 The Jacket is trimmed all around with bullion braid piping, while the sleeves and cap are trimmed with brown cotton ribbon.

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