[18th century, jacket, caraco, pierrot, mariner's cuffs, wool satin, blend satin, edge stitching, 1770s, 1780s]
Fabric: Silk/Wool blend satin, medium to heavy weight (toeing the line). Color is "Light Antique Lavender."
Back Width: 15.5"
Sleeve Length: 26" along back, around elbow curve.
Sleeve Bicep: 13.5" max
Hem: 35" front, 38" back (accommodates lift of a bum-roll or pads).
The buttonholes are handworked with silk floss of a color "light antique lavender", which was an almost perfect match to the fabric. The buttons I made in the 18th century manner, wrapping fabric around wood molds and securing with heavy thread.
I lucked out finding this silk/wool satin gem. It was sold as a "mystery" fabric bolt end of only 4 yards. In the shop I believed I was getting a heavy cotton sateen or maybe a convincing poly blend. But later I did burn tests on the whole fabric, then separate burn tests of threads from the warp and weft separated. Sure enough it came out to be purple silk woven with white wool (I would estimate a 70% silk to 30% wool mix). I had never actually seen wool or silk/wool satin in person, as it's not a common fabric and rarely found in your typical fabric shop. In my searches I also found that it tends to be quite expensive, usually $50+ a yard.
At 60" wide, and with a very subtle two-way nap, I was able to get the following for this garment:
- Jacket used 1.6 yards.
- Petticoat, with a 38" back length and 1.3" hem, used 2.2 yards.
- Total fabric for this garment, 60" wide.........3.8 yards.