Sunday, 1 November 2020

Cotton Caraco w/ Tab Front Closure

 Pattern: My own drafting, a pattern I have been tweaking for a few years now and call the "Gabriella" Caraco. I have so many self drafted patterns floating around, I've started to name them just to keep them straight. The sleeves are taken from an Anglaise pattern in The Cut of Women's Clothes.

Fabrics: Vintage cotton block print, beige linen lining. 

Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Upper Arm: 14" max

My constant revisions of the caraco pattern I based on the 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes are finally finished. Well, finished for this size anyway. The tab closure is just a different version (or view) of the basic jacket. Along with a variation for sleeve lengths. 

The tabs are pinned closed, and depending on how tight the wearer wants it, pins can be added in between the tabs to the stomacher edges. 

The ruching on the sleeves is done by hand. In order to save on time an labor, the edges of the ruching are not finished separately. Instead, they are just folded under, and then the running stitch used to gather run through both layers. I then hand stitched it all down and removed the gathering threads. The result is clean folded edges and the period look of hand stitching =) 

The fabric is 100% cotton, vintage, with a bock print of black ovals with small flowers and dots. The lining is 100% linen, beige. 

There is no machine stitching visible anywhere on the jacket. I did full edge stitching by hand and the armhole seams inside are finished by hand with a blanket stitch. 

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