From Franch Mode, October 1893 - "Jaquette"
*I have the pattern supplement but not the original magazine issue. I have also been unable to find any visual information on the magazine issue to which this supplement belonged.
~The finished garment featured here is currently being sold through eBay, here~
Pattern Quality: Poor. *Pattern does not structurally match the image shown.
While the finished garment came out well, it was was rather dissimilar to the garment shown in the fashion plate image. I will start with the most obvious feature, the pleats on the front of the bodice.
The fashion image shows many pleats at the waist that will then form up into pleats at the shoulder seam. This is a familiar design, as it was featured heavily in blouses. However, the pattern given does not provide for doing this. While the provided front piece allows for pleats at the waist, they do not form up to the shoulder seam. The shoulder width on the front piece is rather narrow just lying flat, which gives absolutely no additional width for the supposed pleats. As you can see, they are missing on the finished garment.
The second lacking feature is the fullness of the sleeves. While they are quite full at the shoulder, there is virtually no fullness at the forearm seam. The plate image shows great fullness at both ends, but the actual patterns ends up providing barely 2" of material to be gathered to a 12" area.
|Pattern Supplement. French Mode, October 1893|
As will all patterns of this nature and from this era, there are many pieces missing, things that the average seamstress at that time was expected to know how to draft herself (such as the cuff or the facing on the center front.
The pictures below show the finished garment as well as some stages of the construction:
|Showing the ruffle of tulle sewn into the back of the sleeve lining|
|70% done. Hem facing, sleeve, buttons still to go|
|Inside of front.|
|Finished sleeve. Lining is very "bouncy" because it's full of tulle =)|
|The pattern included no pieces or information on the belt at all.|
I basically just worked this up myself.
|From above. This must be the view that tall men have of women|
most of the time, lol.
|The lower sleeves are lined in the satin|
as the outer fabric. As such, they are very "floppy".
I had to insert some rolled up paper to get them to
fill out for the pictures =)