Thursday, 2 June 2016

Ageless Patterns #1462 - 1870 Jacket

Patterns: Ageless Patterns #1462 "1870 Embroidered Swiss Muslin Jacket"
Fabric: Plain 100% cotton, black.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Measurements: *The pattern says "medium" and these results bear that out.
Chest: 38" Max
Waist: 28"-31" (front is unfitted and loose, secured with belt or sash)
Hip: Free

~The Pattern~
As a direct reproduction of an actual 1870 pattern, there are very few instructions and the pieces included are minimal. This pattern includes pieces for the fronts, back, and sleeves only. The folds on the deep neckline have to be drafted on the maker's own skill.

The only alteration I made to the  actual pattern was to cut the back with a seam rather than 'on the fold'. I did this because the bottom at center back is split, and I didn't want to deal with the fussy hemming one has to do on a slash with no seam allowance. I also moved the pleats to the front facing curve of the sleeves. On the pattern they are printed on the back of the sleeve, which I assume must be a misprinting, as they are clearly not located there on the illustration and it would make no sense to have the sleeves pleating up on the back of the arm. 

~Neckline Folds~
I drafted the neckline for this blouse directly on the dress form because I had to drape the piece and manipulate the pleats. Getting a straight-of-grain piece of fabric to smoothly form and pleat around a curved neckline is quite fussy. 

In order to make the curve, the pleats are deep and heavily overlapped at the back of the neck, then gradually spreading out as they reach the bust line. Once I had the pleats arranged as I liked, I pinned them through the pleats only (they are not pleated to the bodice). I then removed the pleated sash from the dress form and did hand tack stitching on the back side to keep all the pleats in place late. 

~Lace and Everything Else~
The pattern calls for embroidered flounces (which most likely means eyelet lace), but I went with a net lace instead. It is a flat lace, fathered at a 2:1 ratio on all edges. I don't like the results that machine gathering feet produce, so I do a long running stitch and pull up the gathers by hand

The sides are pleated up moderately. This is done after the blouse seam is sewn; the pleats are not in the seam. I stitched them down by hand "in the ditch" of the existing side seam. 

The pattern includes nothing for the bows or the belt. I made a belt/sash combo. This is comprised of a double layer sash wherein the center of the belt and around the sides is interfaced for stiffness. The stiffness stops where the bow tying begins at center back. 

I did not use a pattern for this skirt. It is comprised of lining layer done in fitted panels with a sheer outer layer gathered all around to the waist of the lining layer. The black sheer overlay is Georgette. The under layer is rayon/cotton blend in maroon purple. The hem of the sheer Georgette is trimmed with black satin ribbon. The closure is at the center back. 


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