Saturday, 2 July 2016

1770s Polonaise - Blue & White Stripe Linen

Patterns: Diagram XXI from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh; "1770s Polonaise"
Fabrics: Blue & White stripe linen/cotton blend (yarn dyed, not printed). Cotton muslin lining. Cotton cambric for white trim.
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Measurements:
Chest: 42" max
Waist: 32 - 37" (Because this garment is not fitted to the waist and is comprised of a pinned stomacher and petticoat with overlapping side closures, it suits rather a large range on the waist)
Upper Arm: 14"
Armhole: 19"
Neckline: 8" below base of throat
Petticoat Hem: 37" at front, fading up to 40" at center back
Back width (actual garment): 11"
Back width (functional body measurement): 14"



Notes on Previous Construction: I have made this pattern once before, and my first use of it was a rough road (See HERE). This time, I graded up the pattern before cutting, widening the back to something usable on a modern figure. 

Notes on the Pattern: I chose not to use the collar piece in this pattern. Also, the stomacher is not included and will have to be drafted on your own. This type of dress could have been worn with a stomacher or a separate bodice, corsage, waistcoat, etc. 

~The Pattern~
 One of the things I found to be unnecessarily troublesome with this pattern is that the lining pieces do not mirror the dress pieces, thus the seams don't match up. Of course, they don't have to, but it's just an unnecessary feature that causes more work because you end up having to do two separate fittings and gradings; one for the lining and one for the dress pieces. In the end, I discarded the lining piece for the center back and mirrored the bodice sections of the dress instead. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~Another point to remember is that if you don't plan to use the collar piece, you will have to alter the center front closure. As it is, it comes to a stark point that would overlap under the collar, but looks pretty messy without it.
~The Trim~
The white ruched trim is 100% cotton, cambric; a rather stiff, loosely woven fabric that behaves sort of like a cross between cotton organdy and crinoline. The edges are pinked and treated with a fray-lock compound (sometimes modern stuff is just better, LOL). The trim is stitched on entirely by hand. 


Finally, another change I made to the pattern was the positioning of the trim on the back seams. I placed the trim on the two outer seams rather than the seam closer to the center back. 

~Finished~

































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