Friday, 30 December 2016

Fashions of the Gilded Age - "Cashmere and Satin Hood" Red Velvet

Pattern: "Cashmere and satin hood," reprinted in Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II, p.80.
Fabrics: Red "Premier velvet", FD-6000 grade (how I wish this stuff was still widely available!). Black satin lining. White cotton flannel interlining.

~The Pattern~

Comprised of only two pieces with the hood being cut on the fold. I cut mine with a center back seam only because of fabric limitations. The original write up calls for the hood and cape to be lined. I added cotton flannel interlining as well.

The first thing to note is that unlike most capelet patterns, this one is formed to curve over the shoulders and essentially trap the upper arm. This is not a garment conducive to much upper arm movement. It's not really for much movement at all, as I'll explain later.

(below) Showing the cape piece with darts stitched.

(below) The hood piece with flannel interlining pinned for stitching.

~The Hood~
I'm not sure what the proper phrasing would be, but I will call this a demi-hood. It is shallow, with the top front resting just on the crown of the head. Because of this, the hood doesn't really function to protect from cold or wind. It is more of a fashion item, like the lace hoods that ladies would pin to the tops of their hairstyles. This hood is also quite difficult to keep in place without fixing it the hair in some way. I recommend stitching two small combs about a inch back inside the hood.

~Hood Back~
The hood is pointed, but the point is folded down and attached to the hood back with a hook/eye, which is then decorated over with ribbons. This creates a pleasant shape from the usual rounded head.

(below) A view showing the shoulder darts

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