Friday, 24 February 2017

1887 Paisley Print Day Dress

Patterns: Truly Victorian #261 Skirt, Truly Victorian #367 Cascade OverSkirt, Truly Victorian #460 Bodice (altered).
Fabrics: 100% cotton, printed in a paisley design of red, gold, tan, black, and grey (It's a pretty complex printing). Black broadcloth for overskirt and bodice cuffs.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 45"
Waist - 36"
Hem - 38.8" at front. 43.5" at back (cut for large bustle)
Back Width - 16"
Bicep - 16"
Neck - 17" max.

Most of my pictures have turned the paisley pattern into a stark orange, for some unfathomable photographic reasons. They are quite red. I have a few pictures of the fabric alone that shows the true coloring better.


Made using Truly Victorian #460 Bodice. The overall bodice length  is shortened by one inch, but with the full length of the center front unchanged (resulting in a steeperfront point). Fully interfaced in cotton twill and fully lined in black broadcloth.
The bodice is boned at 8 points; the 4 front darts and 4 side seams. The boning is natural nylon, 3/8" wide. The back seams are not boned.
Sleeves are full length with folding cuffs and a 3" deep opening, secured at the end with a hook/eye.
The closure is at the center front with small gold and black buttons.

Made using Truly Victorian #367 Overskirt. Made with black broadcloth. The waistband is interfaced and hand bound on the inside. The closure is at the center back with large skirt hooks/eyes. The heavily swag front portion of the skirt is held up and adjusted to fit with ties that are hidden under the back portions of the skirt. If you are making this skirt for yourself, I recommend making these ties in a matching color, or make them from the same fabric as I did.

I have made this over-skirt three times now and every time I go through a frustrated little dance because of the back pleats. The directions are good and concise, you just need to read them closely (something I'm guilty of not doing). Also, avoid heavy weight fabric or those with very tight weaves, because you will be stitching through A LOT of layers on those back sections.

Made using Truly Victorian #261, altered to a 38.5" front length. The skirt is fully flat lined in gray broadcloth and all seams are bound in lace hem binding. The hem is turned with lace hem facing and blind stitching in place (no top-stitched hem). I also added an overlapped placket for the left side closure, which closes with hooks and eyes. The waistband is interfaced and hand bound on the inside.


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