Sunday, 25 August 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat

Pattern: Self drafted.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, blue and white stripe print.

Measurements: Pinned closure has a 1.25" front overlap that allows for the size range.
Chest: 35-36"
Waist: 27.5 - 28.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 12.5"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside around elbow): 25"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back
Upper Arm: 12.5" max

Closure Types: Pins on the bodice front. Buttons on the cuffs.


Overview
I went simple with this one, owing mostly to the fabric. I imagine a white apron, something like organza or voile, would look very well over this (I might make one). It's a Pierrot Jacket with front pinning closure and full length sleeves. The sleeves end in Mariner's cuffs with hand-worked buttons and buttonholes. The petticoat is a full width style, three panels coming out to 132".
Construction Details
As I try to do every time when working in the era, all visible stitching has been done by hand. And I also attached the sleeves by hand with a standard back-stitch. This isn't a visible seam, but I just like hand sewing =). The sleeves linings are whip-stitched in over the seam allowance, so there are no raw edges or exposed seams in the jacket.

The petticoat is also hemmed by hand and all the vertical seams utilize the fabric selvage edge. The side slits are narrow hemmed by hand and the slit bottom worked over with a buttonhole stitch. 

Wear and Accessory Ideas
Since this blue and white fabric is so shocking to the eye, I didn't want to muddy the image further with self trims. Taking that stripe and jumbling it up with ruching or ruffles felt like blinking at a kaleidoscope. Instead, I think it would look best with delicate white accents; a semi-sheer apron with ruffled edges, a long fichu that could cross the body and tie at the back, that sort of thing. And maybe a jot of contrasting color, like a red or pink bow at the bodice front.  And red shoes. I'm always a sucker for red shoes. 

FINISHED























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