Tuesday, 20 August 2019

1760s Casaquin With Ruching - Brown Silk

Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on the 1750s Jacket featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh.

Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown. Lining is a mix of blue stripe linen, printed cotton, and tan linen. The hem is faced with hand-dyed indigo cotton.

Measurements:
Chest: 36-37"
Waist: 29-31"
Hem: 38" at front, 41" at back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13" max.
Sleeve: 17" (3/4 length)


Construction Details
The Caraco (or Casaquin) style jacket closes with a laced lining panel inside, followed by the stomacher. The jacket edges are then pinned to the stomacher (see below). The petticoat is a standard two-panel shape with side opening and separate front and back waistband. Four cotton ribbon ties allow the waistbands to be secured around front and back.


The laced panel is stitched to the jacket at the side seams. The other fabric pieces behind it are just fit padding on the dress form.



Ruching
Everyone loves ruching, but no one--myself included--loves doing it. It's a ton of work, but always worth it! As you can see below in the (absolutely horrible phone camera) picture, it's a meticulous operation.


I attached the sleeve lining separately with whip-stitching, so there are no exposed seams or raw edges in the jacket

Finished
















Below you can see the top stitching where the inside lacing panel has been attached.







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