Thursday, 23 January 2020

1740s Style Caraco Jacket - Costume

Patterns: Self drafted, based on a jacket from 1750.
Fabrics: Poly blend brocade, damask pattern. Blue and gold.

Chest: 37-38"
Waist: 30-32"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14.5"
Shoulders: 17"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Hem length: 39" at front and back.
Hem Circumference: 120"

I made this jacket by using the "Gabriella" casaquin pattern I drafted last year, but with the length extended six inches. The sleeves have hanging cuffs, and the closure is at the front with a stomacher and pins (silver or gold headed pins practically vanish into the fabric pattern). 

The construction techniques, patterns, etc. are historically accurate, but the fabric is a poly blend brocade. Due to that, this won't stand up to snuff for historically accuracy, but it's great for stage use, masquerade, etc.

All visible stitching is done by hand, including the hem, and the stomacher is stiffened with two layers of linen buckram. The closure is done by pinning the stomacher to the stays, then pinning the jacket edges to the stomacher down the sides. Large gold or silver headed pins are best. 
The jacket has a horizontal seam on the side, just over the hip, and the side-back seams come to a collection of backward facing pleats, similar to the way skirts are pleated on men's coats. 

The center backs are cut to allow the fabric pattern to match, and both sides of the coat are symmetrical with the pattern.

. The coat is fully interfaced in cambric, and fully lined in gray cotton. The sleeve linings are slip-stitched in by hand, covering the armhole seam allowances. There are no exposed or raw seams inside the jacket.

The Petticoat
I used a different method this time for pleating up the top of the skirt. I've seen a few pattern, several in the Norah Waugh book, showing the petticoats that would go over pocket hoops and wide panniers. I ran across a type that has the width of the skirt at the sides on a drawstring, so it can be cinched up to accommodate the height change in different pocket hoops, bum rolls, etc. 

The sides can even be overlapped to decrease the height more, allowing the skirt to fit over simple bum rolls. Though, pocket hoops or wide panniers are best suited.

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