Thursday, 6 December 2018

1760s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Wool

Patterns: My own drafted pattern, adapted from a 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the Larkin & Smith "English gown" pattern. The cuffs are self drafted.

Fabrics: The jacket is 100% wool, dark blue, medium weight. The petticoat is 100% linen, medium weight, in a gold-beige with a soft print of sprigs. The jacket lining is a patchwork of different linens, natural and white.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *the lacing front allows for a range of fit
Chest: 39 - 41"
Waist: 32 - 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (cut for a bum roll)
Shoulders: 17.5"



Construction
This is the same jacket as I made in my previous post, only graded up a size. I think this size is finally complete. All pieces tweaked and altered to match up perfectly, etc. I trace it out on the good paper now, lol. I added wing cuffs to this one, taking is back to more 1750s/60s appropriate, at least for height of fashion. We all know that people continued to wear outmoded styles long after the more fashionable types had left them behind =). 

All visible stitching is done by hand, and I did full edge stitching. I also made a second stomacher to match the petticoat, just to mix things up. 

Jacket lining (detail). Hand edge stitching.

(detail) stomacher and petticoat linen.
The Cuffs are unlined, hemmed by hand, and attached with slip stitching. The pleats are also held in place with the hidden stitches. 




The Sleeves are shaped to come to a sharp point, then suddenly pivot direction at the shoulder seam. The effect is a bit less dramatic here because it's a casual "undress" type jacket. You see it done much more pronounced, and deeper set into the back, on formal gowns.


Finished







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