Fabrics: The jacket is 100% wool, dark blue, medium weight. The petticoat is 100% linen, medium weight, in a gold-beige with a soft print of sprigs. The jacket lining is a patchwork of different linens, natural and white.
Available on Etsy HEREMeasurements: *the lacing front allows for a range of fit
Chest: 39 - 41"
Waist: 32 - 35"
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (cut for a bum roll)
This is the same jacket as I made in my previous post, only graded up a size. I think this size is finally complete. All pieces tweaked and altered to match up perfectly, etc. I trace it out on the good paper now, lol. I added wing cuffs to this one, taking is back to more 1750s/60s appropriate, at least for height of fashion. We all know that people continued to wear outmoded styles long after the more fashionable types had left them behind =).
All visible stitching is done by hand, and I did full edge stitching. I also made a second stomacher to match the petticoat, just to mix things up.
|Jacket lining (detail). Hand edge stitching.|
|(detail) stomacher and petticoat linen.|
The Cuffs are unlined, hemmed by hand, and attached with slip stitching. The pleats are also held in place with the hidden stitches.
The Sleeves are shaped to come to a sharp point, then suddenly pivot direction at the shoulder seam. The effect is a bit less dramatic here because it's a casual "undress" type jacket. You see it done much more pronounced, and deeper set into the back, on formal gowns.