Saturday, 15 December 2018

JP Ryan Riding Habit - Red Linen

Patterns: Riding Habit from J.P. Ryan, with minor alterations.
Fabrics: 100% linen, brick red. 100% linen lining, gray-blue with tan and grey stripes. 100% cotton floss for buttonholes.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 40/41"
Waist: 33/34"
Hem: 39" at front
Back Width: 14"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Bicep: 14" max

made the pattern size 14, which is marked having a 40" chest and 32" waist. I was pretty true with my seam allowances and piece cutting, so I think the pattern just runs a little large in the waist.

  • All the buttonholes, eyelets, and top stitching are done by hand. 
  • The waistcoat has 10 satin gold metal buttons.
  • The jacket has 34 buttons, total. 
  • The cuffs, collar, and center fronts are interfaced with linen buckram. 
  • I added 1" to the top width of the cuffs so they would flare out away from the sleeve just a big more. 

The Waistcoat

The pattern includes the coat and waistcoat. I made the waistcoat without the decorative belt portion and also added lacing at the back for size adjustments.

(below) The waistcoat, laying on top of the jacket.

(below) waistcoat fronts, showing linen buckram interfacing.

(below) the waistcoat back lacing, from the inside.

Some fitting concerns you might find for the waistcoat revolve around the front length. The waistcoat ends just barely past the natural waist, so if you have a large bust it might cause the front to be too short and ride up. Because of how the waistcoat is cut, I recommend making most sizing adjustment at the  the center front, not the side seams.

The Jacket
All the buttons and buttonholes on this coat are decorative. It's my favorite version of 18th century excess =) The jacket closes at the front with hooks and eyes, though with the waistcoat it's very attractive with the coat left open or with just the top too hooks secured.

There are 16 buttons along the center fronts, 6 total on the cuffs, 6 total along the pocket flaps, and 6 total on the skirt side vents. The pockets are functional and of a decent size, about 5" deep.

The jacket is fully lined in board striped linen. The sleeve linings are hand whip-stitched to the armhole seam allowances (see picture).

Construction Tips

  • The pleat guides on the skirt pieces are not precise. I recommend just pinning them in place, then adjusting them to fit when it comes time to stitch the skirt pieces to the bodice. 
  • Apply your hooks and eyes at the center fronts before you apply the buttons down the center front lapels. This way you can work the stitching for the hooks and eyes through to the front of the jacket (those stitch marked will just be covered by the lapels later when they are stitched down by the decorative buttons. 
  • Be careful with the seam allowances on your collar. If you make them too small by even a bit, your collar will be too big to fit the neck edge. It's a stretch already, to be honest. You might want to consider making the collar just a smidge smaller so you aren't clipping and pulling the neck edge to death just to make it fit. 
  • When interfacing the front lapels, trim the interfacing away from the leading edge so it won't be included in the seam allowance when you stitch the lapels to the jacket. The center fronts are already going to be very thick with multiple layers of fashion fabric, interfacing, and lining. Your lapels will fold back better with a bit less bulk. 
  • Follow the grain markings on the skirt pieces! You'll regret it if you don't (trust me, I know =/ ). 

Now the avalanche of photos!

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