Monday, 3 December 2018

1770s Casaquin Jacket - White Print Chintz

Patterns: My own drafting, adapting from the 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the English Gown pattern sold by Larkin & Smith.

Fabrics: 100% cotton chintz, tightly woven, with a print of black dots and black/red flowers. It is a reproduction print from Burnley & Towbridge made in 2013. The fabric is no longer on their website, so I'm not sure it's still in production. Lining is a mix of cotton and linen.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE

Measurements: (the lacing closure allows for a range of fit)
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 27-30"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Shoulders: 17" max
Back Width: 13.5"
Nap to waist: 16.5"

Since this jacket is one of my own drafting, I'm constantly remaking it for tweaks and sizing and all that. This is probably the 5th time I've made this jacket, although it's the first time with the Larkin & Smith sleeves (which matched up beautifully from the 39"chest size group).

Possible changes I may want to make next time include making the starting point of the eyelets higher, basically raising the neckline an inch or two. Since I'm forced to work with dress forms that have modern body shaping, it can be a pain with 18th century garments. The bust point on the modern silhouette is much lower than it is in 18th century stays. And since I don't use models, I'm pretty much stuck with these dress forms =/ 

Construction Notes
As I always do with pre-sewing machine era garments, I did all visible top stitching and top work by hand. The lacing ribbon is rayon. Unfortunately I was out of 1/4" silk ribbon in white. The little ruffles on the cuffs are cut on the bias with scalloping shears, then top stitched down by hand. 


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