(Another) 1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: 1815 Ladies' Hat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill. With alterations.

Fabrics: 100% silk, buttercup yellow and indigo blue. Faux flowers and an ostrich plume.

Making up the 1815 hat again, but with some alterations this time. I changed the shape of the crown to be the same height back and front, and did a gathered covering rather than flat. I used all the same general construction methods:

• double layer heavy buckram for the base.
• cotton flannel for the mull layers
• steel wiring around the brim, crown base and top, and vertically around the crown.
• assembly done all with hand stitching, no glue. 

1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: The 1815 Ladies' hat, produced in 1/8th scale in The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter Bucknell

Fabric/Materials: 100% silk taffeta, black. Heavy weight cotton buckram. Cotton flannel for mull.

This style hat perches on the head rather than fitting down snug, so sizing is really OSFA adults.



The hat is made with a base of heavy cotton buckram, double layer. The frame is wired around the brim, the top and bottom of the crown, and vertically around the crown in 5 places. The outer fabric, lining, and ribbon ties are all the same black silk taffeta. A decorate black rope is fixed around the crown and tied in a bow at the back.

The hat is entirely hand stitched. I only used glue to apply the flannel mull layers to the buckram, which is historically accurate.

1770 Mens Frock Coat - JP Ryan

Pattern: JP Ryan "1770 Frock Coat"
Fabric: Cotton/wool blend brocade featuring  two shades of blue and cream "crosses" at the diamond intersections.

Measurements: As taken on the form.
Chest: 42/43"*
Back Width: 17"
Shoulders: 21"
Bicep: 15" max
Back Length (from collar seam): 41"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"

*This frock coat style is designed to be open at the front, curving away to show a waistcoat. The buttons & buttonholes are decorative only. This allows some ease in the wearer's size. 

1911 Blue Dinner Dress.

Patterns Used: 1912 Kimono Dress, from Sense & Sensibility 
Fabrics: Blue gauze with horizontal grain and light silver two-tone woven in. Blue netting with a diamond pattern of silver floss woven in.

Measurements:
Chest: 39-41"
Waist: 33" or smaller
Hip: 44" or smaller
Hem: 38" from natural waist.
Bicep: 15" max.
Dress Length, back, neck to hem: 50"

1870s Plum Taffeta Dinner Gown with Split Tail Over-skirt

Patterns: Truly Victorian #305 "Bustled Apron Overskirt" (with alterations), Truly Victorian #262 "Four-Gore Underskirt"

Fabrics: Crisp dress taffeta, poly/rayon, in a reddish brown color shot with black. Lining is netting on the overskirt and broadcloth on the bodice.

Measurements:
Chest: 37-38"
Waist: 28"
Hip: <42"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 14.5"
Bicep: 13" max

1880s Black Separates - Velvet & Satin

Patterns: Truly Victorian #460 Bodice, Truly Victorian #305 Over-skirt (altered), Truly Victorian #201 Skirt. 
Fabrics: A mix of black satin, velvet, and jacquard velvet in a leaf print.

Measurements:
Chest: 38"
Waist: 27.5
Hip: <41"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 14.5"

1880s Full Length Coat - TV560

Pattern: Truly Victorian #560 "1880s Late Bustle Coats."
Fabrics: Wool blend, mouse brown.
Cotton flannel interlining, chocolate brown.
Thin sateen (rust orange), and linen blend (oatmeal) for lining.
Collar and facings done in dark brown silk taffeta.

Measurements: This is a coat, an over-garment, so these numbers reflect the measurements to be taken over your clothes.
Chest: 44"
Waist: 35-37" (The coat is only lightly fitted with darts, giving it lots of ease in the torso)
Hip: <55" (Again, lots of built-in ease)
Length (base of throat to hem, front): 52"
Shoulders: 20" across.

This is only the second time I've worked with this pattern, and it's the first time making the full length version. The pattern comes with two collar variations, and two sleeve variations. I chose the turned-down lapel version with the one-piece bell sleeves. I also went with the asymmetrical buttoning shown on the pattern cover art, rather than doing a double-breasted look.

It is a great pattern! All the pieces go together well, the pattern sizing is true and reliable. Because it's so simple, it also lends itself to alterations and being a jumping off point for other garments. I added pockets to this one, hidden in the side seams =)