1871 Harper's Bazar Jacket - Black Velvet

Patterns: Sleeveless Jacket from Harper's Bazar, Vol.IV, No. 34, pattern No.IX.
Bodice from Truly Victorian #400 "1871 Day Bodice" & sleeves from Truly Victorian #441 "Garibaldi Blouse"
Skirt from Truly Victorian #202 "1869 Grand Parlor Skirt"
Fabric:  Cotton velvet, black. Polyester taffeta, flocked with black velvet.

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Alterations: I combined patterns for the bodice, taking the sleeves from a Garibaldi blouse pattern. I also shortened the bodice and added a collar.
Measurements:
Chest: 38"
Waist: 30.5
Hip: <45"
Hem: 40" at front

(1871) Harper's Bazar, Vol. IV, No. 34 - Pattern No. IX, "Velvet Jacket with Basque"

~The Jacket~

I have the antique issue of Harper's Bazar, and its pattern supplement, containing this pattern and others. It is a very simple pattern, only three pieces. My first observation for reproductionists is that the torso will have to lengthened, unless you happen to to be a very petite person (like 5 feet tall). The bottom of the jacket has a rather pronounced jutting out over the hip, so if the jacket isn't long enough that jutting will look strange hovering over where the hip should be.

Another thing that could prove to be an issue are the pleats at the back. They aren't very deep, and unless you use a fabric that holds a press very well, the pleats will keep falling open over the edge of the bustle, which basically ruins the back shape you're after. I added some pins to the underneath to assist in holding he pleats out to the hem as they jut over the bustle (see photos further down).

I chose to sack line this jacket, which I do think is best since it doesn't close in the front and one might glimpse the insides during wear. This image shows the inside of the jacket with lining already attacked before I turned it inside out. With all the curved edges on the hem, I had a lot of snipping to do.