Friday, 30 December 2016

Fashions of the Gilded Age - "Cashmere and Satin Hood" Red Velvet

Pattern: "Cashmere and satin hood," reprinted in Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II, p.80.
Fabrics: Red "Premier velvet", FD-6000 grade (how I wish this stuff was still widely available!). Black satin lining. White cotton flannel interlining.




Tuesday, 20 December 2016

1750s Anglaise with Robings - Red & Gold

**Note: I decided to post all the photos for this post at original 
size, which may be difficult to view on phones and tablets
Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown", with significant alterations.
Fabric: 100% cotton, medium/heavy weight (lighter than canvas, heavier than calico). Gold and Red damask print. 8 yards at 54" used in total, gown and petticoat.
This dress is available to buy on Etsy HERE


Measurements:
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 28-29.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 11" (18th c. style, of course)

Wednesday, 7 December 2016

1760s Casaquin -or- How to make an 18th century Dress From a Single Indian Sari

Pattern: None. Self drafted to mimic styles in extant fashion plates and garments.
Fabric: 100% silk, Indian, made from a single 5 meter sari.
             Interlining of cotton twill, medium weight.
             Lining of cotton osnaburg, unbleached.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *this garment utilizes a pinned stomacher closure and has a moderate ease of fit.
Chest: 34-35"
Waist: 27-28.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40.5" at back. Cut to fit over large bum roll.
Back width: 11.5" (18th c. silhouette, shoulders thrown back more than typical of modern figures)
Upper Arm Circ.: 13" max.

Closure Method: Spiral lacing at front, covered by pinned stomacher. Jacket edges are then pinned to  the stomacher to conceal.

**The rest of the finished garment images begin about half way down the post

Sunday, 27 November 2016

1770s "ribbon candy" Anglaise - Larkin & Smith English Gown Pattern

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" is the base, though the fronts are altered to have a closed front rather than a stomacher, and the robings have been omitted
Fabric: Cotton blend, cream, with narrow stripes of purple, blue, red, and green.
             White cotton for lining, bodice and sleeves only.
Undergarments: Dress form torso padded to reflect general shaping of 18th century stays. Foundation item is a large crescent bum roll (see further down).

Measurements: 
Chest: 43"
Waist: 35"
Hip: free
Hem: 40" at front, 10" drag at back. *hem is shaped to accommodate a bum roll.

Construction Notes: Hand stitched


Sunday, 9 October 2016

R4552 - Vintage Anne Adams, 1950. Halloween Print

Pattern: Anne Adams, R4552, issues in 1950(?). Purchased from local thrift store for $0.20.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, novelty print. 100% linen, black.
Pattern size: labeled '38'. Chart shows chest 38, waist 32. Pattern is marketed as "stout" figures.
Available on Etsy HERE
Final Garment Measurements: *as measured on dress form shown
Chest: 40"
Waist: 33"
Hip: 43"
The pattern has a comfortable amount of ease built in, indicating this was not intended to be tight. I prefer a closer fit, so I padded my form to suit that.



Tuesday, 4 October 2016

Butterick B6055 - Halloween Inspired Day Dress

Pattern: Butterick B6055 , Retro Collection. Originally produced in 1950.
Fabrics: Novelty Halloween cotton print (witch cameos*). Black cotton twill with velvet flocked pattern.
Pattern Size Cut: 22
Available on Etsy HERE
Alterations?: Yes. I added cuffs to the sleeves and black lace binding to the hem. I also used faux jewel accents above the pockets instead of ties. No alterations to fit. Dress is cut from the pattern "as is."
Final Measurments (as shown on dress form):
Chest: 45" (large cup)
Waist: 38"
Hip: 46"
Hem: 30" from waist seam
Cuff circumference: 14"
Standard US Dress Size: 16/18

*Purchased last year from JoAnn Fabrics. I don't know if it is still being carried.

Thursday, 8 September 2016

1750 Mantua - Norah Waugh XIV. Anglaise en fourreau

Pattern: 1740-1750 Mantua, diagram XIV from Norah Waugh The Cut of Women's Clothes. Extant garment described as heavy white silk damask and housed at the Victoria and Albert Museum. I could not find images of the extant garment.
Fabric: 100% silk Taffeta, beige/cream. Medium weight.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *These reflect a range due to the nature of the front closure
Chest: 36/27"
Waist: 31/32"
Shoulders: 17"
Back Width: 13"
Upper Arm: 15.5" (Sleeves in the early 18th century were wider and more relaxed than later)
Armhole to Waist seam: 8.5"