Wednesday, 23 December 2020

JP Ryan Robe a la Francaise - Pink/white stripe

Pattern: Pet en l'air (Robe a la Francaise) from J.P Ryan.
Fabric: 100% cotton, pink & white stripe, with a moire weave. 100% linen for bodice lining. 100% silk taffeta for sleeve linings.

Measurements: *I cut the pattern size 14-16, but in my opinion this pattern runs small and fell several inches below the pattern's stated size of a 40-42" chest.

Chest: 37-39"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front
Bicep: 13.5" max
Back Width: 14" (adjustable)

Tuesday, 10 November 2020

1780s Casaquin Jacket in Plum Corded Velvet

 Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on a pattern from The Cut of Women's Clothes I have been altering for a while. 

Fabric: 100% Cotton velvet, corded. Today we would call it corduroy, which comes from French for "cord of the king". 

Chest: 40-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 15"
Upper Arm: 14.5" max
Hem: 35.5" walking length. 

Sunday, 1 November 2020

Cotton Caraco w/ Tab Front Closure

 Pattern: My own drafting, a pattern I have been tweaking for a few years now and call the "Gabriella" Caraco. I have so many self drafted patterns floating around, I've started to name them just to keep them straight. The sleeves are taken from an Anglaise pattern in The Cut of Women's Clothes.

Fabrics: Vintage cotton block print, beige linen lining. 

Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Upper Arm: 14" max

Thursday, 29 October 2020

Black Chemise a la Reine LM #133

Pattern: Laughing Moon #133, View B with Full Gathers.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, sheer weight. 100% silk for lining. 

Chest: 40"
Mid-Waist: 36.5" or less*
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14.5"

*The waist sits half-way between the natural waist and the underbust. 

I took some pictures with the gown inside-out to better show the structure of the lining. 

The pattern does not have any instructions for partially lining the sleeves. It is something I decided to add based on a painting I had seen of something similar on a white gown. 

The back closes with hooks and eyes. The pattern has ties here, but doesn't provide instructions of doing a drawstring at the top through the gathered body and lining. It's somewhat of a nuisance, and I would say that if you're doing the option of the fitting lining, don't bother with the ties closures. They will gap anyway and you'll end up needing the hooks and eyes. 

Showing without the sash, the waistline sits quite high, between natural and under-bust. If you have a large cup size relative the pattern size, you will have to length the front bodice to keep the waist from sitting too high. 

Saturday, 12 September 2020

Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit pattern, with alterations. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, medium weight. Linen/rayon blend, gray. 

A reproduction of an 18th century ladies' riding habit, in three parts: Coat, Waistcoat, and Petticoat. The waistcoat and petticoat are made of gray linen. The coat is made of black 100% wool.

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including all buttonholes. The buttonholes are corded and done in the keyhole style.

MEASUREMENTS - Waistcoat & Petticoat:
Chest: 40"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40" at back.
Back Width: 13" (actual garment measurement at upper back. Armholes are wide)

MEASUREMENTS - Coat (The coat measurements are different, slightly larger, because they assume the increased bulk of a shirt and waistcoat. These measurements were taken OVER the waistcoat and other garments)
Chest: 42"
Waist: 34"
Back Width: 14" (actual distance between armhole seams, upper back)
Sleeve: 26" (outside curve)
      18.5" (inside curve)
Bicep: 14.5" max

Sunday, 23 August 2020

18th century Quilted Velvet Petticoat. Gray.

Patterns: None. Rectangles and math. 
Fabric: Rayon velvet with cotton backing, pre-quilted. 

The waistband edges meet on either side on a 35" waist, so waist would depend on how much side overlap the wearer wants. More overlap, smaller than 35". No overlap, higher than 35". 

The hem is currently unfinished so I can take it up to the desired length of whoever buys it. 39" or shorter.

Monday, 10 August 2020

1770s Silk/Wool Satin Jacket & Petticoat

[18th century, jacket, caraco, pierrot, mariner's cuffs, wool satin, blend satin, edge stitching, 1770s, 1780s]
Pattern: Self-draft. 
Fabric: Silk/Wool blend satin, medium to heavy weight (toeing the line). Color is "Light Antique Lavender." 

Chest: 42"
Waist: 35"
Back Width: 15.5"
Sleeve Length: 26" along back, around elbow curve. 
Sleeve Bicep: 13.5" max
Hem: 35" front, 38" back (accommodates lift of a bum-roll or pads). 

Sunday, 24 May 2020

Period Impressions 424 - "Open Front Jacket 1735-1740"

Pattern: Period Impressions 424, "Open Front Jacket, 1735-1740"
Fabrics: Linen, deep red. Silk, bronze, for the lining. Cotton/linen blend for the petticoat.

Measurements: *Finished measurements from garment, cut size 14. 
Chest: 39/40"
Waist: 33"
Hip: Free (see alteration notes)
Hem: 37" at front
Back Width: 14.5"
Upper Arm: 14" max

Period Impressions is no longer in operation or printing new stock, so the only patterns to be had are what is left in merchant inventories and second hand circulation. Patterns of Time, Amazon Dry Goods, and James Country Mercantile are good sources. This one in particular is getting harder to find, so if you're interested I recommend snatching it up.

This pattern, which is very similar to the 1735 jacket featured in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, has been around for over 20 years, but I have found precious little about it online. Few people seem to have made it, or if they did they didn't put much about it online. I recently bought it in the pattern set 12-14-16. 

Saturday, 21 March 2020

Riding Habit - Continental Army Colors

Patterns: J.P Ryan Riding Jacket & Waistcoat.
Fabrics: Linen/cotton blend, blue and red. White silk taffeta for waistcoat. The coat is lined in cotton bemberg, and interfaced in various areas with linen/jute interfacing.

Chest: 32"
Waist: 29"
Hem: 35"

Here we have a recent commissioned pieced, a ladies' riding habit and waistcoat done in linen and following the general color scheme of the American Continental Army uniform. 

Thursday, 6 February 2020

18th c. Riding Habit - Red Velvet

Patterns: JP Ryan riding habit, with alterations.
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, red. 100% silk, white. 100% linen, plaid.

Measurements: *Pattern size 8
Chest: 34"
Waist: 26.5"
Back Width: 13"
Armhole, waistcoat: 19"
Upper Arm: 12.5" max
Hem: 39" at front, 41.5" at back.

An 18th century ladies' riding habit done in cotton velvet and fully lined in oatmeal & green plaid linen. Functional pockets and full length sleeves with fitted cuffs. The waistcoat is white silk jacquard with tiny raised diamonds. All top stitching is done by hand, including buttonholes. The buttons are hand worked over wood molds in the HA manner with tissue weight silk taffeta, deep red. The jacket is shown open in all the pictures, but hooks and eyes allow it to be fully closed as well.

Friday, 24 January 2020

1780 Men's Waistcoat - Silk Taffeta

Pattern: The 1780 waistcoat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill.
Fabrics: 100% Taffeta, gold and autumn tones. 100% linen, light weight, rust color.

Chest: 39"
Waist: 32.5"
Hip: <40"

SummaryThe is the second waistcoat I've made from the Margot Hill book. The first was the 1755 Waistcoat. Like all the patterns in this book, it suits a slim figure. The design is also a bit unusual. The book sets it from 1780, but it feels a bit later. Perhaps better suited the transitional period between Rococo and Regency, like 1790s. The length and cut away style are 18th century, while the lapels and double breast upper section feel much later.

1780 waistcoat, from The Evolution of Fashion.