Monday, 30 December 2019

1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: The 1815 Ladies' hat, produced in 1/8th scale in The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter Bucknell

Fabric/Materials: 100% silk taffeta, black. Heavy weight cotton buckram. Cotton flannel for mull.

This style hat perches on the head rather than fitting down snug, so sizing is really OSFA adults.

The hat is made with a base of heavy cotton buckram, double layer. The frame is wired around the brim, the top and bottom of the crown, and vertically around the crown in 5 places. The outer fabric, lining, and ribbon ties are all the same black silk taffeta. A decorate black rope is fixed around the crown and tied in a bow at the back.

The hat is entirely hand stitched. I only used glue to apply the flannel mull layers to the buckram, which is historically accurate.

Thursday, 26 December 2019

1770 Mens Frock Coat - JP Ryan

Pattern: JP Ryan "1770 Frock Coat"
Fabric: Cotton/wool blend brocade featuring  two shades of blue and cream "crosses" at the diamond intersections.

Measurements: As taken on the form.
Chest: 42/43"*
Back Width: 17"
Shoulders: 21"
Bicep: 15" max
Back Length (from collar seam): 41"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"

*This frock coat style is designed to be open at the front, curving away to show a waistcoat. The buttons & buttonholes are decorative only. This allows some ease in the wearer's size. 

Monday, 16 December 2019

1911 Blue Dinner Dress.

Patterns Used: 1912 Kimono Dress, from Sense & Sensibility 
Fabrics: Blue gauze with horizontal grain and light silver two-tone woven in. Blue netting with a diamond pattern of silver floss woven in.

Chest: 39-41"
Waist: 33" or smaller
Hip: 44" or smaller
Hem: 38" from natural waist.
Bicep: 15" max.
Dress Length, back, neck to hem: 50"

Friday, 15 November 2019

1870s Plum Taffeta Dinner Gown with Split Tail Over-skirt

Patterns: Truly Victorian #305 "Bustled Apron Overskirt" (with alterations), Truly Victorian #262 "Four-Gore Underskirt"

Fabrics: Crisp dress taffeta, poly/rayon, in a reddish brown color shot with black. Lining is netting on the overskirt and broadcloth on the bodice.

Chest: 37-38"
Waist: 28"
Hip: <42"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 14.5"
Bicep: 13" max

Monday, 21 October 2019

1880s Black Separates - Velvet & Satin

Patterns: Truly Victorian #460 Bodice, Truly Victorian #305 Over-skirt (altered), Truly Victorian #201 Skirt. 
Fabrics: A mix of black satin, velvet, and jacquard velvet in a leaf print.

Chest: 38"
Waist: 27.5
Hip: <41"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 14.5"

Sunday, 29 September 2019

1880s Full Length Coat - TV560

Pattern: Truly Victorian #560 "1880s Late Bustle Coats."
Fabrics: Wool blend, mouse brown.
Cotton flannel interlining, chocolate brown.
Thin sateen (rust orange), and linen blend (oatmeal) for lining.
Collar and facings done in dark brown silk taffeta.

Measurements: This is a coat, an over-garment, so these numbers reflect the measurements to be taken over your clothes.
Chest: 44"
Waist: 35-37" (The coat is only lightly fitted with darts, giving it lots of ease in the torso)
Hip: <55" (Again, lots of built-in ease)
Length (base of throat to hem, front): 52"
Shoulders: 20" across.

This is only the second time I've worked with this pattern, and it's the first time making the full length version. The pattern comes with two collar variations, and two sleeve variations. I chose the turned-down lapel version with the one-piece bell sleeves. I also went with the asymmetrical buttoning shown on the pattern cover art, rather than doing a double-breasted look.

It is a great pattern! All the pieces go together well, the pattern sizing is true and reliable. Because it's so simple, it also lends itself to alterations and being a jumping off point for other garments. I added pockets to this one, hidden in the side seams =)

Saturday, 31 August 2019

1889 Ladies' Plaid Walking Suit

Patterns: TV290 "1889 Draped Skirt", and TV464 "1883 Riding Habit" With alterations to both.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, Shetland Flannel. Dark blue broadcloth for lining.

Chest: 43"
Waist: 34"
Hip: <47"
Hem: 40" at front.
Back Width: 15"
Shoulders: 18"
Bicep: 14.5"
Sleeve Length: 23"

Sunday, 25 August 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat

Pattern: Self drafted.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, blue and white stripe print.

Measurements: Pinned closure has a 1.25" front overlap that allows for the size range.
Chest: 35-36"
Waist: 27.5 - 28.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 12.5"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 19"
Sleeve Length (outside around elbow): 25"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back
Upper Arm: 12.5" max

Closure Types: Pins on the bodice front. Buttons on the cuffs.

I went simple with this one, owing mostly to the fabric. I imagine a white apron, something like organza or voile, would look very well over this (I might make one). It's a Pierrot Jacket with front pinning closure and full length sleeves. The sleeves end in Mariner's cuffs with hand-worked buttons and buttonholes. The petticoat is a full width style, three panels coming out to 132".

Tuesday, 20 August 2019

1760s Casaquin With Ruching - Brown Silk

Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on the 1750s Jacket featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh.

Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown. Lining is a mix of blue stripe linen, printed cotton, and tan linen. The hem is faced with hand-dyed indigo cotton.

Chest: 36-37"
Waist: 29-31"
Hem: 38" at front, 41" at back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13" max.
Sleeve: 17" (3/4 length)

Saturday, 27 July 2019

1800 Bib-Front Dress - Silk Organza.

Patterns: Laughing Moon's "Bib-Front" Gown, with some alterations.
Fabrics: 100% silk organza, with a jacquard border weave of flowers in gold/silver metallic threads. Fully lined in gray broadcloth.

Measurements: *Pattern size 20
Chest: 41-43"
Under-bust: 36-38"
Hem: 40.5" at front, 41.75" at back.
Back Width: 14"
Upper Arm: 16" max
Sleeve: 25" (long to give the scrunched up look, popular at the time).

Thursday, 18 July 2019

Caraco a la Polonaise...again.

Pattern: Still tweaking and refining my drafted pattern from the most recent post, with some sleeve variation too.
This dress is currently for sale on Etsy--HERE
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dove gray, with black taffeta waistcoat and accents.

*The laced back of the waistcoat, as well as the style of the polonaise, allows for a range of fit. This is probably one of the reasons it was such a popular "casual" garment for the upper class.
Chest: 38.5-40"
Waist: 33-34.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front, 41" at back (fits over a rump or bum roll)
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13.5"
Sleeve: 23" long

All visible stitching done by hand, with machine stitching on inside seams. Hand done buttonholes, wrapped buttons, and lacing eyelets.

Wednesday, 12 June 2019

Caraco a la Polonaise - 1770s Jacket

Pattern: Self drafted, though I referred to two pattern from The Cut of Women's Clothes as a guide when I began; diagrams XXI and XXIII. I also referred to several extant fashion plates.

Fabric: 100% Silk Taffetas, in dark brown, buff, and sage green.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 31-32.5"
Back Width: 14"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max.
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back

Monday, 3 June 2019

1850s Garibaldi Blouse & Bolero Set

Patterns: Jacket and Blouse from Truly Victorian Patterns. Skirt is self drafted.
Fabrics: Blouse is tissue weight linen. Jacket and Skirt are cotton with a check/grid pattern in brown.

Chest: 42-44"
Waist: 33-34.5 (adjustable by moving the hook placements at back)
Neck: 15" max
Hip: free
Hem: 42.5" (over a moderate hoop skirt)
Back Width: 16"
Upper Arm: 16" max

Sunday, 10 March 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat - Green/Copper Silk

Pattern: Self drafted, except for the sleeves. Sleeves are taken directly from the Anglaise gown featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh (pattern XXVI).

Fabric: Green/Copper shot silk taffeta. Lining is medium weight linen, dusty blue with stripes of yellow and darker blue.

Chest: 37"
Waist: 29"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 39.5" at back
Back Width (garment, between armhole seams): 11.5"
Back Width (actual body, arm socket position): 14"
Bicep: 13.5" max
Forearm: 10.5" max
Wrist: 8.5" max (easily adjustable by shifting button position)
Armsyce: 18.5"

Sunday, 3 March 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket - Pink Stripe Silk

Pattern: Drafted from a combination of pieces from extant garments featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. The bodice is mostly taken from the 1780s anglaise (plate XXII).

Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, pink and cream stripe. The lining is pieces from unbleached cotton osnaburg and bleached cotton muslin. The front is interfaced with plain white linen to add body for the buttons.

Measurements: (Can be adjusted slightly by shifting the button positions at the center front)
Chest: 36"
Waist: 28"
Hip: Free
Back Width (arm seam to arm seam): 11.5"
Back Width (real body): 13"
Back Length (from nap of neck to natural waist): 16"
Bicep: 13" max
Forearm: 10.5" max
Wrist: 7.5" (adjustable, shift button)
Armscye: 18"
Hem: 40" at front, 43.5" at back (cut for large bum roll or rump)

Sunday, 17 February 2019

1808 Bib-Front Day/Evening Dress - Neutral stripe Voile

Patterns: Laughing Moon #126, View B.
Fabrics: 100% cotton sheer weight (voile), woven stripes in neutral tones of cream, brown, and pink. Bodice lining in cream broadcloth.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: The bodice style allows a small range of fit.
Chest: 39-41"
Underbust: 34.5 - 35.5"
Waist: <40" (not really important)
Hip: <45" (also not that important. Skirts are full)
Length (from underbust): 46" at front, 47.5" at back
Back Width (between armhole seams): 10"*
Back Width (real arm socket position): 14.5"*
*the sleeves are cut with fullness at the back, cutting in further than they do on modern garments. This gave the illusion of a narrow upper back.
Bicep: <14"
Hem Circumference: 120"

A bib-front style gown done in feather-weight cotton voile and lined in light taupe broadcloth (bodice and sleeves. Skirts are unlined). The dress is shown over a single under-bust petticoat. The sleeves are convertible long/short, with the bottom section finished as a separate piece and tack stitched to the inside of the upper sleeve's cuff. These stitches can be picked out quickly and the bottom sleeves removed. The front is held in place with ties around the under-bust, secured at back, and two self-made Dorset buttons on the fronts to hold up the center panel. The center panel has a drawstring channel at top for fit adjustment.

All visible stitching has been done by hand.

Sunday, 6 January 2019

Fairy Queen Costume - M4997

Patterns: McCall's 4997 "Renaissance Robe", and Simplicity 2777 for the under-dress. Alterations made to both.
Fabrics:  Pink fabric is a polyester/spandex/metallic blend with moderate stretch in one direction. A very fine silver thread interwoven creates the glistening effect. Green fabric is 100% polyester georgette, semi-sheer.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 46-48"
Waist: 36-38"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40"
Back Width: 16.5"
Upper Arms: Very wide, OSFA