Saturday, 15 December 2018

JP Ryan Riding Habit - Red Linen

Patterns: Riding Habit from J.P. Ryan, with minor alterations.
Fabrics: 100% linen, brick red. 100% linen lining, gray-blue with tan and grey stripes. 100% cotton floss for buttonholes.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 40/41"
Waist: 33/34"
Hem: 39" at front
Back Width: 14"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Bicep: 14" max

Thursday, 6 December 2018

1760s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Wool

Patterns: My own drafted pattern, adapted from a 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the Larkin & Smith "English gown" pattern. The cuffs are self drafted.

Fabrics: The jacket is 100% wool, dark blue, medium weight. The petticoat is 100% linen, medium weight, in a gold-beige with a soft print of sprigs. The jacket lining is a patchwork of different linens, natural and white.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *the lacing front allows for a range of fit
Chest: 39 - 41"
Waist: 32 - 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (cut for a bum roll)
Shoulders: 17.5"

Monday, 3 December 2018

1770s Casaquin Jacket - White Print Chintz

Patterns: My own drafting, adapting from the 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the English Gown pattern sold by Larkin & Smith.

Fabrics: 100% cotton chintz, tightly woven, with a print of black dots and black/red flowers. It is a reproduction print from Burnley & Towbridge made in 2013. The fabric is no longer on their website, so I'm not sure it's still in production. Lining is a mix of cotton and linen.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE

Measurements: (the lacing closure allows for a range of fit)
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 27-30"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Shoulders: 17" max
Back Width: 13.5"
Nap to waist: 16.5"

Friday, 30 November 2018

Larkin & Smith English Gown - Blue Wool

Patterns: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" with en fourreau style back.
Fabrics: 100% wool, medium weight. 100% linen.
Time to Finish: About 4 days with hand top stitching.

Chest: 39"
Waist: 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 36"
Sleeves: 18" from shoulder

Saturday, 24 November 2018

1872 Basque Separates - Cian Silk

Patterns: TV #305 "Bustled Apron Over-Skirt", TV #410 Polonaise (altered to bodice length), Self-Drafted Collar.
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, light cian color. Wool/silk blend suiting, solid black.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Chest: 35.5"
Waist: 27.5"
Hip: <40"
Hem: 39" at front.
Back Width: 14"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Nap to Waist: 16"
Bicep: <13.5"
Sleeve Length (front curve): 13.5"

An early 1870s ensemble consisting of 5 separates pieces:

The skirt and over-skirt are 100% silk taffeta, in a light cian color. The bodice is a tightly woven wool/silk blend, medium weight, in stark black. The collar is a separate piece with a single hook/eye at the center front. The bodice has a plain square neckline. 

Tuesday, 13 November 2018

1872 Side Drape Overskirt - Red Homespun Cotton

Patterns: Truly Victorian #303 "1872 Side Drape Overskirt"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, red, homespun weave.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Chest: 34.5" max
Waist: 25"
Hip: free
Hem: 40.5" at front
Back Width: 14" max
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Sleeve (top seam to end): 23"
Bodice length (back, not including collar): 16"

Saturday, 10 November 2018

1872 Carriage Bodice - Red Homespun Cotton

Patterns: Truly Victorian #402 "Carriage Bodice"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, homespun, in deep red. Cotton twill interfacing. Black broadcloth lining.

Measurements: *I cut the pattern at a size H, but there are the final measurements I got.
Chest: 42"
Waist: 34.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 16"
Shoulders: 19" across back of neck.
Bicep: 16" max.

Sunday, 21 October 2018

JP Ryan Riding Habit - Royal Blue

Pattern: 1770s Riding Habit, from J.P Ryan (with alterations to waistcoat). Pattern is size 14.
Fabric: 100% wool, coat weight, in bright blue. Lining is white linen and the interfacing is buckram of a linen/jute blend. Waistcoat is 100% figured silk with tiny diamonds.

Chest*: 38.5"
Waist*: 32"
Hip: free
*The coat is worn being worn over the waistcoat and shirt, which add to the overall measurements, so the coat chest is 40" and the waist is 33" 

Sunday, 7 October 2018

1884 Plaid Day Dress with Antique Lace

Truly Victorian #460 for the Bodice;
Truly Victorian #423 for the Sleeves;
Truly Victorian #263 for the Skirt;
Truly Victorian #365 for the Overskirt.

Fabrics: The plaid fabric is a high-thread count cotton flannel, the sort used for men's shirts. It is lighter than the cotton flannel one usually sees in baby blankets, and the weave it much more intricate (a lot of asymmetrical weaves in the larger stripes). The green fabric is a simple homespun cotton in pine green. The bodice lining is emerald green satin. The eyelet lace on the cuffs and collar are antique pieces I salvaged.

Neck................15.5" max
Upper Arm......15" max
Back Width......16"
Hem.................39" at front.

Sunday, 15 July 2018

Regency Bib Front Dress - Yellow Silk

Patterns: Laughing Moon #126, view B bodice with view A sleeves.
Fabric: 100% silk, 100% cotton lining.

Measurements: *pattern size 18
Chest: 40"
Under-bust: 35"
Back width: 13"
Back width (garment, between armhole seams): 10.5"
Sleeve: 21" on short inside curve.

Tuesday, 10 July 2018

1885 Indigo Cotton Dinner Dress

Patterns: TV261 Skirt, TV382 "Asymmetrical Add-on" Over-skirt, TV460 Bodice.
Fabrics: Waverly homespun collection cotton, indigo blue. Chemisette is salvaged antique net lace.

Chest: 35"
Waist: 27.5"
Hip: <38"
Hem: 40" at front.

Friday, 29 June 2018

Regency Mameluke Sleeve Dress w/ Jumper

Patterns: None. Self drafted.
Fabric: 100% cotton voile, white. 100% polyester faux silk, emerald green.

Chest: 39"
Waist: 34"
Hem: 38" from underbust

Simplicity 8579 Panniers or Pocket Hoops

Pattern: Simplicity 8579, panniers.
Fabric: Cotton broadcloth.
Boning: Size 8 round reed.

I made the pattern size 16, designated for a 30" waist and 40" hip.

Simplicity 8579 panniers- with tulle addition

Sunday, 17 June 2018

1886 Purple & Black Jacquard Day Dress

Patterns: Truly Victorian #460 Cuirass Bodice (with alterations). Truly Victorian #365 August Overskirt.
Fabrics: Black satin and purple cotton jacquard. Black satin lining.

Chest: 38"
Waist: 29"
Hip: <42"
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 14" max
Back Width: 14.5"
Hem: 41" at front.

I kept this one relatively simple, making few alterations to the patterns. I made no changes to the overskirt pattern except to add small fitting darts to the side-front sections, to accommodate for a larger hip. I made similar changes to the bodice, extending the outward curve at he hem for a wider hip and scooping the center front to allow for a bit of a "pouch" in the belly (I think most of the TV bodice patterns require this alterations. They are straight at the center front and too narrow in the hip. I also altered the collar to be offset and close with a button.

Thursday, 29 March 2018

1780s "Gabriella" Caraco Jacket - Blue Chintz

Pattern: Self Draft Jacket I've finally labeled the "Gabriella". Giving them names is really making it easier to keep my photo files organized, lol.
Fabric: 100% Cotton, dark blue with floral print. 100% silk lining, ice blue. 100% linen, partial lining. Petticoat is 100% cotton, white.

Measurements: *Lacing front allows for a range of fit.
Chest..............40.5 - 42.5"
Waist.............32 - 35.5"
Hem..............38" front, 41.5" back (to be worn with a bumroll)
Back Width...15" max
Bicep.............14.5" max

Thursday, 22 March 2018

1805 Black Stripe Dress with Silk Bodice

Pattern: Self Drafting
Fabrics: Black cotton with a sateen vertical stripe. 100% silk satin, vintage, with Asian leaf pattern. Dark blue linen for bodice lining.

Measurements: *drawstrings and lacing give this ensemble some range of fit.
Chest: 35-37"
Under-bust (bodice): 32-34"
Back Width: 12.5"-14"
Sleeve Bicep: 14" max

Tuesday, 20 March 2018

Simple Regency Spencer Jacket - Purple Silk

Pattern: Self-draft.
Fabrics: 100% silk, woven, with jacquard stripes. Body is lined in cream cotton print. Sleeves lined in dark gold silk.
Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *underbust band has a drawstring channel hidden in it, allowing it to be cinched down smaller.
Bust: 38" max
Underbust: 35" max
Sleeve: 26.5" front top of shoulder. Meant to be worn to the knuckles, scrunched up along arms.
Bicep: 13" max
Forearm: 11" max
Back Width: 13.5" between armhole seams.

Sunday, 18 March 2018

Blue Wool Casaquin Jacket - 1770

Pattern: Started with the 1750 jacket from Norah Waugh, diagram XXX; really just a base, as I thin altered it drastically.
Fabrics: 100% wool, blue with a green tinge; tiny vertical ribs. 100% silk taffeta, yellow gold, with stripe pattern of light green and cream. 100% silk jacket lining, dark gold. Linen buckram for stomacher interfacings.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *Jacket has a lacing closure, allowing for an ease of fit. 
Chest: 38/39"
Waist: 31/32"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 41" at back (tbw with a bumroll).
Sleeve: 19" inside curve.
Bicep: 15" max.
Forearm: 12.5" max.
Wrist: 8" (can be altered by shifting buttons)
Back Width: 13.5", across shoulder blades between armhole seams.