Friday, 17 September 2021

18th century Riding Habit w/ militaristic accents - Green wool twill

 Pattern: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit, with self drafted changes to collar, lapels, cuffs, etc.
Fabrics: Wool blend Twill, dark green. Gold silk lining (repurposed drapery lining). Silk floss and gimp used for buttonholes. Muted gold metal buttons. 

Measurements:
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30" (wiggle room with waistcoat and petticoat, and if the jacket is left open)
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" front, 42.5" back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 14" max

Saturday, 11 September 2021

Eagle's View 18th Century Waistcoat - Red Wool

Patterns: Eagle's View Men's Waistcoat, 18th century version, with alterations. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, tomato red, tropical weight. 100% linen, natural, medium weight. 

Measurements:
Chest: 42-43"
Waist: 37-39" (back lacing to fit)

Tuesday, 7 September 2021

Mill Farm Riding Habit (sort of) - Green Wool, 1750s style.

Pattern: The Mill Farm Riding Habit, but with significant alterations. In fact, the only piece I didn't heavily alter was the back. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, hunter green. 100% linen, tartan pattern. 

Measurements:
Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 37-38"
Hip: Free
Sleeve length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve length (inside curve): 17"
Bicep: 15" max
Hem: 38.5" at front, 41.5" at back (shown over large false rump)



Thursday, 26 August 2021

"Rocking Horse Farm" 18th C. Banyan & Cap (red swirl cotton)

Pattern: Rocking Horse Farm #152 "Banyan & Cap 18th century" (First time use) 
Fabrics: 100% cotton outer fabric, deep red with scrollwork patterns in gold, dark brown. 100% cotton lining, white with block print scroll pattern. Front, cuffs, and collar facing done in silk/rayon blend velvet, emerald green. Cap done in all the same fabrics. 

Measurements: 

  • I made the pattern size Large, marked as a 40-42" (101-107cm) chest. Still quite comfortable up to a 44"(112cm), however. 
  • The sleeves are overlong, nearly 38"(96cm) from the neck, intended to be rucked up or folded up at the cuffs as I have done. The velvet facing is very deep and the cuffs can be folded up more than twice as deep as shown in the images, if needed. 
  • The full length at the back, from collar seam to hem, is 59.5" (151cm)
  • The cap comes in only one size, and came out to comfortably fit a 22.5"(57.15cm) head, with wiggle room



Monday, 26 July 2021

1790s Round Gown - Brown Embroidered cotton (with sleeveless bolero)

Patterns: Laughing Moon #133 Robe en Chemise with significant alterations and construction changes. I basically used it as my jumping off point. 

Fabrics: 100% cotton batiste, embroidered, dark brown. Linen/cotton blend for lining, also dark brown. Bolero is 100% silk, mini stripe in coral and cream.  

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the hem and drawstring channels. 

Measurements (gown only): *Style allows for a lot of wiggle room in the chest, underbust, and waist.
Chest: 34-38"
Underbust: 30-34"
Waist: Pretty much free, would work as maternity wear. 
Hip: Free
Back Width: 13.5" 
Hem Length: 41" at front from natural waist. About 44" from the underbust seam. 4" longer at the back. 
Hem Width: 180" very fully. 

Measurements (bolero): *with center front fully laced closed
Chest: 36"
Underbust: 32/33"





Wednesday, 7 July 2021

1760s Riding Habit, or "sporting" ensemble

 Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit for the coat. The waistcoat and petticoat and self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, gold, for the petticoat and waistcoat. The coat is 100% wool, lightweight and with a very tight weave and smooth finish. The coat is lined with indigo blue cotton and a gray/green plaid linen. 

Measurements: Made the pattern size 10 with no alterations to fit. Patterns runs true in this size
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (shown over a split rump)
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 13.5" max
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18"
Back Width (Between armhole seams on Coat): 12.5"


Once again, J.P Ryan's riding habit pattern proves to be the best available =)
I changed the orientation of the pockets and the flaps for preference, but other than that there were no changes to the pattern itself. The instructions are more modern, but if you're familiar with 18th century construction techniques, it's nothing to just assemble it the way you want. 

The "Sporting Ensemble"?
I've seen many images, especially paintings, or so-called riding habits that really didn't look feasible for a woman to be wearing on actual horseback. I think riding ensembles were quite popular for other outdoor activities, like lawn games, picnicking, etc. I got my impression here from a fashion plate that indicated a silk taffeta petticoat with a riding coat. I can't imagine anyone would attempt to ride a horse in a taffeta petticoat! That would be the worst fabric imaginable for that purpose, so it was definitely the riding habit "look", but not the function. 

[of course we do this today as well. It's common for people to wear yoga gear when they do not and have no intention of doing yoga =P]

Tuesday, 29 June 2021

1880s Riding Habit - Brown wool blend

Patterns: Truly Victorian #264 "Riding Habit Skirt" , Bodice is a combination of the Truly Victorian riding jacket and a self drafted front, with alterations to the back. 
Fabric: A chocolate brown wool/poly blend. Skirt lining faux silk, cobalt blue. Bodice lining is a piece-work of scrap linen and silk. 

Measurements:
Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 31-32"
Hip: <44"
Hem: 42" at left side (42" all around when right side is looped up *see below)
Bicep: 14" max
Neck: 15.5" max