Wednesday, 26 January 2022
Sunday, 16 January 2022
Patterns: J.P. Ryan "18th Century Frockcoat"
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, black, medium weight. 100% silk, black, plain weave. 100% linen, plaid of green and beige. 100% cotton twill, black, for lining facings.
Measurements: *made the pattern size 48" and came out true to size. Measurements taken on the form.
Waist: N/A (open coat)
Sleeve, outsize curve: 26"
Sleeve, inside curve: 19.5"
Bicep: 17" max
Shoulders: 22" across back of neck.
|18th century Black Velvet Frockcoat. |
For full photo album, scroll down to the bottom of the post.
- Silk covered buttons (hand wrapped, in period method). 32 total (10 down front, 8 on cuffs, 6 under pocket flaps, 6 on skirt vents, 2 over skirt pleats.)
- Handmade faux buttonholes, 24 total.
- Full edge stitching, done by hand, with the "wrap over" method on the lining (Fancy French term: Point a rabattre sous la main)
- Linen interlining on the body fronts and pocket area, for strength and stability.
- Faced lining, black cotton twill on skirts and down fronts.
- Linen lining on sleeves and upper body.
- Cuffs and pocket flaps lined in charcoal gray silk taffeta.
- Two functional pockets, 7" deep.
When it comes to men's coats, and especially these curved-front cutaway style coats, interlining really is key. Maintaining the crisp shape of that front curve is not easy. The fabric there wants to stretch, and you an end up with that ugly squiggle wave features down the front. But not if you secure things properly =)
Now, the second part of securing the shape of the front edge is one that is often omitted in reproductions, but I swear by it! This is called droit-fil, which is a fancy French way of describing a piece of cotton or linen tape. It needs to be something sturdy that has no stretch at all, 1/2" is best.
You first fold over the seam allowance on the front edge of the coat, pressing it nice and flat if you're fabric will take an iron. The droi-fil is placed over the folded front edge as shown.
(above) showing the back side of the coat front, with false buttonholes already done (you can see the stitching coming through), and droit-fil pinned in place for stitching. You then hand whip-stitch the droit-fil to the coat along both edge, making sure the stitches do not go through the front side.
(above) showing the left front section of the coat, with pocket flap and buttons already applied. You can also see the additional tac-stitching that has been applied between the buttonholes marks. This holds all the layers of fabric nicely in place while you do your buttonholes.
(below) Showing how the sleeve lining is attached. After the sleeves are set in with just the outer fabric, the seam allowance of the armhole is clipped it, so it can be folded, and then the sleeve seam allowance is folded under and pined over the edges. Slip stitched in place.
Tuesday, 19 October 2021
Patterns: TV496 "1896 Ripple Bodice, TV296 "1895 Ripple Skirt".
Fabrics: Poly Taffeta with floral/vine embroidery, bronze. Knobby wool blend, red.
Hem: 40.5" at front.
Back Width: 16" max
Neck: 16" max
Friday, 17 September 2021
Pattern: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit, with self drafted changes to collar, lapels, cuffs, etc.
Fabrics: Wool blend Twill, dark green. Gold silk lining (repurposed drapery lining). Silk floss and gimp used for buttonholes. Muted gold metal buttons.
Waist: 29-30" (wiggle room with waistcoat and petticoat, and if the jacket is left open)
Hem: 39" front, 42.5" back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 14" max
Saturday, 11 September 2021
Patterns: Eagle's View Men's Waistcoat, 18th century version, with alterations.
Fabrics: 100% wool, tomato red, tropical weight. 100% linen, natural, medium weight.
Waist: 37-39" (back lacing to fit)
Tuesday, 7 September 2021
Fabrics: 100% wool, hunter green. 100% linen, tartan pattern.
Sleeve length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve length (inside curve): 17"
Bicep: 15" max
Thursday, 26 August 2021
Pattern: Rocking Horse Farm #152 "Banyan & Cap 18th century" (First time use)
Fabrics: 100% cotton outer fabric, deep red with scrollwork patterns in gold, dark brown. 100% cotton lining, white with block print scroll pattern. Front, cuffs, and collar facing done in silk/rayon blend velvet, emerald green. Cap done in all the same fabrics.
- I made the pattern size Large, marked as a 40-42" (101-107cm) chest. Still quite comfortable up to a 44"(112cm), however.
- The sleeves are overlong, nearly 38"(96cm) from the neck, intended to be rucked up or folded up at the cuffs as I have done. The velvet facing is very deep and the cuffs can be folded up more than twice as deep as shown in the images, if needed.
- The full length at the back, from collar seam to hem, is 59.5" (151cm)
- The cap comes in only one size, and came out to comfortably fit a 22.5"(57.15cm) head, with wiggle room