Saturday, 27 February 2021

Pattern: Self Drafted.
Fabrics: 100% cotton print, 100% silk taffeta. 

Chest: 35-37"
Waist: 28-32"
Hip: Free
Shoulders: 17.5" roughly.
Bicep: 13.5" max
Garment Center Back Length: 24.5" 

My new self drafting for a casual pet-en-l'air. 100% cotton, hand stitched. Applying the ruching trim by hand was the single largest expense in work hours, but worth it. And I finally found a good enough reason to break into my stash of vintage French rayon ribbon =) 

Monday, 25 January 2021

New Pierrot Jacket Drafting - Green Twill

Pattern: Self drafted body. Sleeves taken from Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabric: 100% cotton twill, rich green, with a very soft hand (feels almost like a low pile velvet!). The petticoat is 100% silk taffeta of varying stripes in golds, greens, and browns.  

Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 32-33"
Back Width (garment, between armhole seams): 12"
Back Width (body, between arm sockets): 14"
Back Length, garment (from top to natural waist): 12.25"
Back Length, body (nap of neck to natural waist): 16.25
Shoulders: 16.5"
Torso length, side (from underarm seam to bottom): 8.25"
Front Length: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18.5"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back.

Summary: A new drafting for a simple, late 1780s Pierrot jacket. The sleeves are full length with eyelets on the cuff, laced shut with ribbon. The body has only two pattern pieces, front and back. The back pieces are quite narrow to lend the optical illusion of a narrow back. 

I did this version in a soft cotton twill, single face. The surface is very soft, almost like a low pile cotton velvet. The jacket is fully lined in gold/tan silk. The center front closure is done is pins (in the pictures, the pins are placed horizontally to the body, making them practically invisible) 

*See the bottom of the post for more completion photos

Tuesday, 19 January 2021

18th c. Caraco w/Comperes Front - Red/Cream Cotton

Pattern: Self Drafted "Gabriella" jacket
Fabrics: 100% cotton, all parts. 

Chest: 35/36"
Waist: 29/30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" Front, 42" Back (bumroll or rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 13.5" max

A 3rd quarter 18th century Caraco jacket with comperes panel front closure and silk covered buttons. The jacket is fully edge trimmed with narrow box pleats that use the stripe print of the cotton. I stitched all the trim down by hand. The buttonholes are also hand worked, and the buttons are silk covered wood forms. 

Wednesday, 6 January 2021

Another "True" Robe a la Polonaise (Caraco)

Pattern: Self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% cotton, jacquard weave of moire with pink stripes. 100% silk lining, baby pink. 100% silk organza, white for cuffs. 100% silk taffeta, white, for hem and neckline ruffles. 

*One of the great things about this style is how forgiving it is with fit. The pin closures allow easy adjustment up or down for body fluctuations. 
Chest: 38-41"
Waist: 31-34"
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40.5 at back (cut for a bull roll or rump pad)
Bicep: 14" max

Summary: The ensemble consists of the over dress (Caraco a la Polonaise), petticoat, and an extra wide stomacher that might have been referred to as a "false waistcoat." All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the application of the white silks trims and shoulder strap/sleeve insertions. The petticoat has hemmed by hand. 

Wednesday, 23 December 2020

JP Ryan Robe a la Francaise - Pink/white stripe

Pattern: Pet en l'air (Robe a la Francaise) from J.P Ryan.
Fabric: 100% cotton, pink & white stripe, with a moire weave. 100% linen for bodice lining. 100% silk taffeta for sleeve linings.

Measurements: *I cut the pattern size 14-16, but in my opinion this pattern runs small and fell several inches below the pattern's stated size of a 40-42" chest.

Chest: 37-39"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front
Bicep: 13.5" max
Back Width: 14" (adjustable)

Tuesday, 10 November 2020

1780s Casaquin Jacket in Plum Corded Velvet

 Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on a pattern from The Cut of Women's Clothes I have been altering for a while. 

Fabric: 100% Cotton velvet, corded. Today we would call it corduroy, which comes from French for "cord of the king". 

Chest: 40-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 15"
Upper Arm: 14.5" max
Hem: 35.5" walking length. 

Sunday, 1 November 2020

Cotton Caraco w/ Tab Front Closure

 Pattern: My own drafting, a pattern I have been tweaking for a few years now and call the "Gabriella" Caraco. I have so many self drafted patterns floating around, I've started to name them just to keep them straight. The sleeves are taken from an Anglaise pattern in The Cut of Women's Clothes.

Fabrics: Vintage cotton block print, beige linen lining. 

Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Upper Arm: 14" max