Friday, 18 June 2021

1895 Bolero Jacket & Skirt Set - Waugh LX

Patterns: Butterick 3418 for the skirt, Truly Victorian #494 for the blouse, and pattern diagram LX from Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes for the jacket. 

Fabrics: Green velvet lace, rayon/cotton blend. Black faux silk, rayon (Jacket lining), and black satin poly blend (skirt lining). 

Measurements: *Being an open front jacket, there is some wiggle room is upper body fit. 
Chest: 36-38" (accommodates large cup size well)
Waist: 28"
Hip: <42"
Hem: 40.5" at front, 42" at back. 
Back Width (between armhole seams): 12.5"
Back Width (actual body measurement): 14-15"
Back Length (jacket, from nape to end): 14.25"
Shoulders: 16.5" roughly, though large sleeve allows wiggle room.
Forearm circumference: 12" max
Bicep (sleeve lining): 14" max
Neck: 13.5" max (close fitting)

Diagram LX "c.1895 Bolero Jacket"

This is my first time making the 1895 Bolero Jacket from the Waugh book. As I always do with first time patterns like this--patterns taken from extant garments--I made this jacket with no alterations to to size or fit from the original pattern. I just added a 1/2" seam allowance. This way I could establish its original size and fit, something that is necessary before you can grade it to other sizes. 

Tuesday, 15 June 2021

Thanks for the Settings change, Google! >:(

 A quick apology to everyone who has left comments or tried to contact me here via the blog over the last few months. I had always kept my blog easy and open to the public, but Google decided to put moderation on comments for some reason and I didn't know, so all those comments were lingering in purgatory, waiting for my attention and approval when I didn't even know they were there. 

Woop! I changed the setting, though, so we're back to the chaos. I'll try to delete the spam comments as they appear ;) 

Monday, 24 May 2021

18th Century American "Hunting Frock Coat" or Shirt.

Pattern: None. Basic cutting instructions for men's 18th century shirt, with alterations. 
Inspiration: Based on images of an extant hunting frock, labeled as being from "Abraham Dunham 1776". I only had images to work from, as there was a paywall on the scholarly articles related to it =/ (see pics below)
Fabric: 100% linen, unbleached. 

A very forgiving garment, not fitted at all, except at the cuffs. I did measure and cut the pieces for a 44" chest and a full sleeve (neck to wrist) of 29". 

Saturday, 27 February 2021

Pattern: Self Drafted.
Fabrics: 100% cotton print, 100% silk taffeta. 

Chest: 35-37"
Waist: 28-32"
Hip: Free
Shoulders: 17.5" roughly.
Bicep: 13.5" max
Garment Center Back Length: 24.5" 

My new self drafting for a casual pet-en-l'air. 100% cotton, hand stitched. Applying the ruching trim by hand was the single largest expense in work hours, but worth it. And I finally found a good enough reason to break into my stash of vintage French rayon ribbon =) 

Monday, 25 January 2021

New Pierrot Jacket Drafting - Green Twill

Pattern: Self drafted body. Sleeves taken from Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabric: 100% cotton twill, rich green, with a very soft hand (feels almost like a low pile velvet!). The petticoat is 100% silk taffeta of varying stripes in golds, greens, and browns.  

Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 32-33"
Back Width (garment, between armhole seams): 12"
Back Width (body, between arm sockets): 14"
Back Length, garment (from top to natural waist): 12.25"
Back Length, body (nap of neck to natural waist): 16.25
Shoulders: 16.5"
Torso length, side (from underarm seam to bottom): 8.25"
Front Length: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18.5"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back.

Summary: A new drafting for a simple, late 1780s Pierrot jacket. The sleeves are full length with eyelets on the cuff, laced shut with ribbon. The body has only two pattern pieces, front and back. The back pieces are quite narrow to lend the optical illusion of a narrow back. 

I did this version in a soft cotton twill, single face. The surface is very soft, almost like a low pile cotton velvet. The jacket is fully lined in gold/tan silk. The center front closure is done is pins (in the pictures, the pins are placed horizontally to the body, making them practically invisible) 

*See the bottom of the post for more completion photos

Tuesday, 19 January 2021

18th c. Caraco w/Comperes Front - Red/Cream Cotton

Pattern: Self Drafted "Gabriella" jacket
Fabrics: 100% cotton, all parts. 

Chest: 35/36"
Waist: 29/30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" Front, 42" Back (bumroll or rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 13.5" max

A 3rd quarter 18th century Caraco jacket with comperes panel front closure and silk covered buttons. The jacket is fully edge trimmed with narrow box pleats that use the stripe print of the cotton. I stitched all the trim down by hand. The buttonholes are also hand worked, and the buttons are silk covered wood forms. 

Wednesday, 6 January 2021

Another "True" Robe a la Polonaise (Caraco)

Pattern: Self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% cotton, jacquard weave of moire with pink stripes. 100% silk lining, baby pink. 100% silk organza, white for cuffs. 100% silk taffeta, white, for hem and neckline ruffles. 

*One of the great things about this style is how forgiving it is with fit. The pin closures allow easy adjustment up or down for body fluctuations. 
Chest: 38-41"
Waist: 31-34"
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40.5 at back (cut for a bull roll or rump pad)
Bicep: 14" max

Summary: The ensemble consists of the over dress (Caraco a la Polonaise), petticoat, and an extra wide stomacher that might have been referred to as a "false waistcoat." All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the application of the white silks trims and shoulder strap/sleeve insertions. The petticoat has hemmed by hand.