Sunday, 24 May 2020

Period Impressions 424 - "Open Front Jacket 1735-1740"

Pattern: Period Impressions 424, "Open Front Jacket, 1735-1740"
Fabrics: Linen, deep red. Silk, bronze, for the lining. Cotton/linen blend for the petticoat.

Measurements: *Finished measurements from garment, cut size 14. 
Chest: 39/40"
Waist: 33"
Hip: Free (see alteration notes)
Hem: 37" at front
Back Width: 14.5"
Upper Arm: 14" max

Period Impressions is no longer in operation or printing new stock, so the only patterns to be had are what is left in merchant inventories and second hand circulation. Patterns of Time, Amazon Dry Goods, and James Country Mercantile are good sources. This one in particular is getting harder to find, so if you're interested I recommend snatching it up.

This pattern, which is very similar to the 1735 jacket featured in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, has been around for over 20 years, but I have found precious little about it online. Few people seem to have made it, or if they did they didn't put much about it online. I recently bought it in the pattern set 12-14-16. 

Saturday, 21 March 2020

Riding Habit - Continental Army Colors

Patterns: J.P Ryan Riding Jacket & Waistcoat.
Fabrics: Linen/cotton blend, blue and red. White silk taffeta for waistcoat. The coat is lined in cotton bemberg, and interfaced in various areas with linen/jute interfacing.

Chest: 32"
Waist: 29"
Hem: 35"

Here we have a recent commissioned pieced, a ladies' riding habit and waistcoat done in linen and following the general color scheme of the American Continental Army uniform. 

Thursday, 6 February 2020

18th c. Riding Habit - Red Velvet

Patterns: JP Ryan riding habit, with alterations.
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, red. 100% silk, white. 100% linen, plaid.

Measurements: *Pattern size 8
Chest: 34"
Waist: 26.5"
Back Width: 13"
Armhole, waistcoat: 19"
Upper Arm: 12.5" max
Hem: 39" at front, 41.5" at back.

An 18th century ladies' riding habit done in cotton velvet and fully lined in oatmeal & green plaid linen. Functional pockets and full length sleeves with fitted cuffs. The waistcoat is white silk jacquard with tiny raised diamonds. All top stitching is done by hand, including buttonholes. The buttons are hand worked over wood molds in the HA manner with tissue weight silk taffeta, deep red. The jacket is shown open in all the pictures, but hooks and eyes allow it to be fully closed as well.

Friday, 24 January 2020

1780 Men's Waistcoat - Silk Taffeta

Pattern: The 1780 waistcoat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill.
Fabrics: 100% Taffeta, gold and autumn tones. 100% linen, light weight, rust color.

Chest: 39"
Waist: 32.5"
Hip: <40"

SummaryThe is the second waistcoat I've made from the Margot Hill book. The first was the 1755 Waistcoat. Like all the patterns in this book, it suits a slim figure. The design is also a bit unusual. The book sets it from 1780, but it feels a bit later. Perhaps better suited the transitional period between Rococo and Regency, like 1790s. The length and cut away style are 18th century, while the lapels and double breast upper section feel much later.

1780 waistcoat, from The Evolution of Fashion.

Thursday, 23 January 2020

1740s Style Caraco Jacket - Costume

Patterns: Self drafted, based on a jacket from 1750.
Fabrics: Poly blend brocade, damask pattern. Blue and gold.

Chest: 37-38"
Waist: 30-32"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14.5"
Shoulders: 17"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Hem length: 39" at front and back.
Hem Circumference: 120"

I made this jacket by using the "Gabriella" casaquin pattern I drafted last year, but with the length extended six inches. The sleeves have hanging cuffs, and the closure is at the front with a stomacher and pins (silver or gold headed pins practically vanish into the fabric pattern). 

The construction techniques, patterns, etc. are historically accurate, but the fabric is a poly blend brocade. Due to that, this won't stand up to snuff for historically accuracy, but it's great for stage use, masquerade, etc.

All visible stitching is done by hand, including the hem, and the stomacher is stiffened with two layers of linen buckram. The closure is done by pinning the stomacher to the stays, then pinning the jacket edges to the stomacher down the sides. Large gold or silver headed pins are best. 

Friday, 17 January 2020

1810 Block-Printed Silk Crepe Dress

Patterns: A mix of Laughing Moon's Bib-Front Dress, and self drafting.

Fabric: 100% silk crepe, block printed. Taken from a vintage Indian Sari.

Chest: 40-43 (drawstring front allows cup size adjustment).
Under-Bust: 36"
Hip: <50"
Hem Length (from the underbust): 42" at front, 43.5" at back.
Hem circumference: 110"
Back Width: 14.5"
Sleeve Length: 26" (the bunched up sleeve look was quite popular).

All visible stitching is done by hand. There is machine stitching on inner seams.

Friday, 3 January 2020

(Another) 1815 High Crown Hat - Margot Hill

Pattern: 1815 Ladies' Hat from The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill. With alterations.

Fabrics: 100% silk, buttercup yellow and indigo blue. Faux flowers and an ostrich plume.

Making up the 1815 hat again, but with some alterations this time. I changed the shape of the crown to be the same height back and front, and did a gathered covering rather than flat. I used all the same general construction methods:
  • double layer heavy buckram for the base.
  • cotton flannel for the mull layers
  • steel wiring around the brim, crown base and top, and vertically around the crown.
  • assembly done all with hand stitching, no glue.