Wednesday, 6 January 2021

Another "True" Robe a la Polonaise (Caraco)

Pattern: Self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% cotton, jacquard weave of moire with pink stripes. 100% silk lining, baby pink. 100% silk organza, white for cuffs. 100% silk taffeta, white, for hem and neckline ruffles. 

*One of the great things about this style is how forgiving it is with fit. The pin closures allow easy adjustment up or down for body fluctuations. 
Chest: 38-41"
Waist: 31-34"
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40.5 at back (cut for a bull roll or rump pad)
Bicep: 14" max

Summary: The ensemble consists of the over dress (Caraco a la Polonaise), petticoat, and an extra wide stomacher that might have been referred to as a "false waistcoat." All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the application of the white silks trims and shoulder strap/sleeve insertions. The petticoat has hemmed by hand. 

Wednesday, 23 December 2020

JP Ryan Robe a la Francaise - Pink/white stripe

Pattern: Pet en l'air (Robe a la Francaise) from J.P Ryan.
Fabric: 100% cotton, pink & white stripe, with a moire weave. 100% linen for bodice lining. 100% silk taffeta for sleeve linings.

Measurements: *I cut the pattern size 14-16, but in my opinion this pattern runs small and fell several inches below the pattern's stated size of a 40-42" chest.

Chest: 37-39"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front
Bicep: 13.5" max
Back Width: 14" (adjustable)

Tuesday, 10 November 2020

1780s Casaquin Jacket in Plum Corded Velvet

 Pattern: My own drafting, based loosely on a pattern from The Cut of Women's Clothes I have been altering for a while. 

Fabric: 100% Cotton velvet, corded. Today we would call it corduroy, which comes from French for "cord of the king". 

Chest: 40-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 15"
Upper Arm: 14.5" max
Hem: 35.5" walking length. 

Sunday, 1 November 2020

Cotton Caraco w/ Tab Front Closure

 Pattern: My own drafting, a pattern I have been tweaking for a few years now and call the "Gabriella" Caraco. I have so many self drafted patterns floating around, I've started to name them just to keep them straight. The sleeves are taken from an Anglaise pattern in The Cut of Women's Clothes.

Fabrics: Vintage cotton block print, beige linen lining. 

Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 34-36"
Hip: Free
Upper Arm: 14" max

Thursday, 29 October 2020

Black Chemise a la Reine LM #133

Pattern: Laughing Moon #133, View B with Full Gathers.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, sheer weight. 100% silk for lining. 

Chest: 40"
Mid-Waist: 36.5" or less*
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14.5"

*The waist sits half-way between the natural waist and the underbust. 

I took some pictures with the gown inside-out to better show the structure of the lining. 

The pattern does not have any instructions for partially lining the sleeves. It is something I decided to add based on a painting I had seen of something similar on a white gown. 

The back closes with hooks and eyes. The pattern has ties here, but doesn't provide instructions of doing a drawstring at the top through the gathered body and lining. It's somewhat of a nuisance, and I would say that if you're doing the option of the fitting lining, don't bother with the ties closures. They will gap anyway and you'll end up needing the hooks and eyes. 

Showing without the sash, the waistline sits quite high, between natural and under-bust. If you have a large cup size relative the pattern size, you will have to length the front bodice to keep the waist from sitting too high. 

Saturday, 12 September 2020

Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit pattern, with alterations. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, medium weight. Linen/rayon blend, gray. 

A reproduction of an 18th century ladies' riding habit, in three parts: Coat, Waistcoat, and Petticoat. The waistcoat and petticoat are made of gray linen. The coat is made of black 100% wool.

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including all buttonholes. The buttonholes are corded and done in the keyhole style.

MEASUREMENTS - Waistcoat & Petticoat:
Chest: 40"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40" at back.
Back Width: 13" (actual garment measurement at upper back. Armholes are wide)

MEASUREMENTS - Coat (The coat measurements are different, slightly larger, because they assume the increased bulk of a shirt and waistcoat. These measurements were taken OVER the waistcoat and other garments)
Chest: 42"
Waist: 34"
Back Width: 14" (actual distance between armhole seams, upper back)
Sleeve: 26" (outside curve)
      18.5" (inside curve)
Bicep: 14.5" max

Sunday, 23 August 2020

18th century Quilted Velvet Petticoat. Gray.

Patterns: None. Rectangles and math. 
Fabric: Rayon velvet with cotton backing, pre-quilted. 

The waistband edges meet on either side on a 35" waist, so waist would depend on how much side overlap the wearer wants. More overlap, smaller than 35". No overlap, higher than 35". 

The hem is currently unfinished so I can take it up to the desired length of whoever buys it. 39" or shorter.