Fashions of the Gilded Age - "Cashmere and Satin Hood" Red Velvet

Pattern: "Cashmere and satin hood," reprinted in Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II, p.80.
Fabrics: Red "Premier velvet", FD-6000 grade (how I wish this stuff was still widely available!). Black satin lining. White cotton flannel interlining.

1750s Anglaise with Robings - Red & Gold

**Note: I decided to post all the photos for this post at original 

size, which may be difficult to view on phones and tablets

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown", with significant alterations.
Fabric: 100% cotton, medium/heavy weight (lighter than canvas, heavier than calico). Gold and Red damask print. 8 yards at 54" used in total, gown and petticoat.

This dress is available to buy on Etsy HERE

Measurements:
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 28-29.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 11" (18th c. style, of course)

1760s Casaquin -or- How to make an 18th century Dress From a Single Indian Sari

Pattern: None. Self drafted to mimic styles in extant fashion plates and garments.
Fabric: 100% silk, Indian, made from a single 5 meter sari.
             Interlining of cotton twill, medium weight.
             Lining of cotton osnaburg, unbleached.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *this garment utilizes a pinned stomacher closure and has a moderate ease of fit.
Chest: 34-35"
Waist: 27-28.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40.5" at back. Cut to fit over large bum roll.
Back width: 11.5" (18th c. silhouette, shoulders thrown back more than typical of modern figures)
Upper Arm Circ.: 13" max.

Closure Method: Spiral lacing at front, covered by pinned stomacher. Jacket edges are then pinned to  the stomacher to conceal.

**The rest of the finished garment images begin about half way down the post

1770s "ribbon candy" Anglaise - Larkin & Smith English Gown Pattern

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" is the base, though the fronts are altered to have a closed front rather than a stomacher, and the robings have been omitted
Fabric: Cotton blend, cream, with narrow stripes of purple, blue, red, and green.
             White cotton for lining, bodice and sleeves only.
Undergarments: Dress form torso padded to reflect general shaping of 18th century stays. Foundation item is a large crescent bum roll (see further down).

Measurements: 
Chest: 43"
Waist: 35"
Hip: free
Hem: 40" at front, 10" drag at back. *hem is shaped to accommodate a bum roll.

Construction Notes: Hand stitched

R4552 - Vintage Anne Adams, 1950. Halloween Print

Pattern: Anne Adams, R4552, issues in 1950(?). Purchased from local thrift store for $0.20.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, novelty print. 100% linen, black.
Pattern size: labeled '38'. Chart shows chest 38, waist 32. Pattern is marketed as "stout" figures.

Available on Etsy HERE

Final Garment Measurements: *as measured on dress form shown
Chest: 40"
Waist: 33"
Hip: 43"
The pattern has a comfortable amount of ease built in, indicating this was not intended to be tight. I prefer a closer fit, so I padded my form to suit that.

Butterick B6055 - Halloween Inspired Day Dress

Pattern: Butterick B6055 , Retro Collection. Originally produced in 1950.
Fabrics: Novelty Halloween cotton print (witch cameos*). Black cotton twill with velvet flocked pattern.
Pattern Size Cut: 22

Available on Etsy HERE

Alterations?: Yes. I added cuffs to the sleeves and black lace binding to the hem. I also used faux jewel accents above the pockets instead of ties. No alterations to fit. Dress is cut from the pattern "as is."
Final Measurments (as shown on dress form):
Chest: 45" (large cup)
Waist: 38"
Hip: 46"
Hem: 30" from waist seam
Cuff circumference: 14"
Standard US Dress Size: 16/18

*Purchased last year from JoAnn Fabrics. I don't know if it is still being carried.

1750 Mantua - Norah Waugh XIV. Anglaise en fourreau

Pattern: 1740-1750 Mantua, diagram XIV from Norah Waugh The Cut of Women's Clothes. Extant garment described as heavy white silk damask and housed at the Victoria and Albert Museum. I could not find images of the extant garment.
Fabric: 100% silk Taffeta, beige/cream. Medium weight.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *These reflect a range due to the nature of the front closure
Chest: 36/27"
Waist: 31/32"
Shoulders: 17"
Back Width: 13"
Upper Arm: 15.5" (Sleeves in the early 18th century were wider and more relaxed than later)
Armhole to Waist seam: 8.5"

Making an 18th century cloak

Making an 18th century Cloak 

~It's All in the Hood~

Like a lot of people, I assumed cloaks were one of those "generic" garments that changed very little over the centuries when when it was worn, sort of like the standard lady's shift (which isn't as generic as we thought either). I soon found, however, that the hood shape was the easier way to tell if something was 18th century or later. 

Available on Etsy HERE

Fabric: Cotton jacquard, charcoal black. 100% silk lining, gold-orange.
Construction: Hand stitching for all visible areas, including hem edge stitching. 

Casaquin Jacket - Purple & Green Silk

Pattern: Drafting using the Norah Waugh, Diagram XXX "1760s Jacket" as a base. Petticoat is self drafted.
Fabrics: 100% silk. Main body is a two-tone silk consisting of magenta and deep blue, creating a final "ultraviolet" hue (this is also the name of the thread that matched perfectly, lol). Contrast trim and the stomacher is apple green silk.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *As they are on the dress form pictured
Chest: 39"
Waist: 31"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at sides, 41" at back.
Bicep: 13"
Back Width: 13.5"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Stomacher Length: 12"

1770s Casaquin Jacket - Deep violet silk. The Antique Sewist

Pet en l'air - Silk Taffeta with embroidered stomacher

Pattern: diagram XV "1740s Sack Dress" from Norah Waugh The Cut of Women's Clothes. Cut to Pet en l'air length. Other alterations as well *see further down*
Fabric: 100% Silk taffeta for pet-en-l'air and petticoat. Lining done in 100% cotton.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *Taken as they are on the dress-form
Chest - 42"
Waist - 37"
Hip - Free
Back Width - 14"
Shoulders - 19.5"
Sleeve length (shoulder to back of elbow) - 13.5"
Upper Arm: 16.5" max
*The overall fit of the pet-en-l'air is more relaxed than most. The back width is wider and the shoulders are further forward than typically seen in extant pieces. The dress has been made to be more suited to a modern posture and shape. 

1870s Truly Victorian Polonaise - Blue & White Cotton

Pattern: Truly Victorian #410 "1873 Polonaise"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, printed, blue/white mini floral print. 100% cotton twill for interfacing. Flat lined in white cotton.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 47" (large cup)
Waist - 37"
Hip - Free
Hem - 40" at front.
Back width - 16"
Shoulders - 20.5"

1770s Polonaise - Blue & White Stripe Linen

Patterns: Diagram XXI from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh; "1770s Polonaise"
Fabrics: Blue & White stripe linen/cotton blend (yarn dyed, not printed). Cotton muslin lining. Cotton cambric for white trim.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:
Chest: 42" max
Waist: 32 - 37" (Because this garment is not fitted to the waist and is comprised of a pinned stomacher and petticoat with overlapping side closures, it suits rather a large range on the waist)
Upper Arm: 14"
Armhole: 19"
Neckline: 8" below base of throat
Petticoat Hem: 37" at front, fading up to 40" at center back
Back width (actual garment): 11"
Back width (functional body measurement): 14"

1788 Pierrot Jacket & Petticoat - Shot silk Taffeta

Patterns: Used as a base for drafting...Bodice from the 1775 Robe a l'Anglaise from Norah Waugh, diagram XXII.
Fabrics: 100% silk Taffeta; an interesting shot silk made up of pink, yellow, and gold threads, resulting in a shifting orange/pink hue (2 yards at 54" for jacket)
               100% linen, white, for lining. 100% cotton, off white, for petticoat.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Also available on Ebay HERE

Inspiration: Various jackets of the 1780s and 90s, but also the red and white striped Pierrot jacket from the Kyoto Collection 

Measurements:
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hem - 40" at front, 42" at sides, 43" at back (cut to fit over large bum roll/rump pad).
Back width - 14"
Bicep, sleeves - 15.5"

Pet en l'Air - Beige & Black Silk

Pattern: Norah Waugh, Diagram XV "1740 Sack Dress", from The Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabrics: 100% silk broadcloth (see farther down for discussion of the fabric). Also cotton for the petticoat and linen for the bodice and sleeve linings.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:*due to the nature of this garment, fitting accommodates a small range.
Chest: 36 - 38"
Waist: 29 - 31"
Hip: Free
Back width: 14"
Hem of Petticoat: 39" at front
                            40" at back
                            44" at sides
                

1760 Jacket - Oops! on a Waugh Pattern =/

Pattern: Diagram XXX "Jacket, 1760-1770" from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. **with alterations relating to a HUGE mistake on my part. Full explanation below.
Features: All visible stitching done by hand, including the petticoat hem and the quilting on the stomacher. The jacket has full edge stitching, also done by hand.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Fabrics: Jacket is a very lightweight, almost feather-weight, wool in a kind of mint green/blue (a nightmare for thread matching!). Lining is white linen, 100%. The petticoat is off-white cotton of a very loose weave, rather like lawn. It is a re-purposed fabric, formally living life as drapes, so it has a laundered, lived in feel =)

Measurements: *scaled up from the original piece by at least 5 dress sizes.
Chest: 43-45"
Waist: 36-38"
Back width: 15"
Hem: 40" at front
          42" at back
          44" at sides

Ageless Patterns #1462 - 1870 Jacket

Patterns: Ageless Patterns #1462 "1870 Embroidered Swiss Muslin Jacket"
Fabric: Plain 100% cotton, black.

Available on Etsy HERE

Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements: *The pattern says "medium" and these results bear that out.
Chest: 38" Max
Waist: 28"-31" (front is unfitted and loose, secured with belt or sash)
Hip: Free

1869 Parlor Dress - Separates

Patterns: Truly Victorian #202 "1869 Grand Parlor Skirt"
               Bodice from Harper's Bazar, June 3rd 1871. Supplement pattern No.II (personal magazine supplement collection).
Fabrics: Skirt is 100% silk, plaid. 100% cotton lining.
              Bodice is heavy weight 100% cotton sateen.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 37"
Waist - 29"
Hip - Free
Hem - 39" at front, 60" at back
Back width - 14.5"

The illustration above, taken from the cover of Harper's Bazar (June 3rd, 1871) appears to show a bolero jacket over neck height bodice. In fact, the trim on the bolero gives that illusion. The under portion is, in fact, low neck. The original had the bolero hooking closed from neck to top of breast, covering the exposed portion of the low under-bodice. I decided to leave the bolero open and allow the under-portion's low neckline to show.

1860s Bolero (Zouave) Jacket with Detachable Sleeves

Patterns: Truly Victorian #444 "1864 Spanish Jackets"
               Truly Victorian #441 "1861 Garibaldi Blouse"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed Hounds-tooth Flannel. Blouse is cotton with a raised mini-stripe and dot. 100% silk for lining and all piping accents.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hip - Free
Hem - 43"

This set is made from the same hounds-tooth flannel I used for my last project, the 1871 Polonaise. I love 60" fabrics because they go so much further than their 45" counterparts. =)

1871 Polonaise from Harper'z Bazar

Pattern: Harper's Bazar pattern supplement, 1871. Vol. IV, No.36, pattern #1 "Gros Grain Mourning Dress." Taken from the original magazine and sheet in my collection =)
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed houndstooth flannel. 100% silk accents, dark brown. 100% cotton lining.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE

Measurements:
*I graded the pattern up from the original by several inches. The original comes out to a 24" waist
Chest: 40" (large cup)
Waist: 30"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14"
Hem: 39" at front.

1911 Suit Ensemble - From "Margot Hill" book

Patterns: All taken from the 1911 Women's pattern set in The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter A. Bucknell. New York: Reinhold (1967), p. 206-209.
Ensemble includes separate patterns for:
Blouse
High-waisted skirt

Coat

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE

Fabrics: 100% Cotton, all layers. The green fabric is a woven jacquard in sage green. The blouse is cotton batiste, embroidered and flocked with appliques.
Measurements: *Patterns in the Hill/Bucknell book have been sized to an average 25/26" waist, and 35" bust. I did not grade this pattern, but made it "as is" from the book. These were my final dress form measurements during mounting of the finished garments
Chest: 35"
Waist: 27"
Hip: 38"
Hem (from natural waist): 39"
Back width: 14"
Neck: 15" max
Wrist (for blouse): 7.5" max
Sleeves from shoulder (blouse): 22"
Sleeves from shoulder (coat): 23"

1887 Plum Purple Plaid Suit - TV 466 & TV290

Patterns: Truly Victorian #466 "1887 Alexandra Bodice" (slightly altered)
                 Truly Victorian #290 "1889 Draped Skirt" (slightly altered)
Fabrics: Plaid is wool/cotton blend, deep "royal plum" or
               "plum purple" with plaid of white and light pink.
               Solid is silk/cotton blend faille (unique, I wish I could find more of it!)

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 44"
Waist - 36"
Hip - <50"
Hem - 42"

1795 Round Robe - Norah Waugh

Pattern: Diagram XXXII, "Round Robe c.1795", from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, feather weight, buttercup yellow. Egyptian cotton, 100%, for lining.

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements: *no alterations made to size. "As if" from the pattern, except for skirt length
Chest - 38"
Waist - 29"
Hip - Free
Hem - 42" long
Hem circumference - 189", 5.25 yards.
Back width - 12.5"
Back length (neckline to waist) - 14"

Book Description *I could not find any other information about this dress beyond what is in the Waugh book. I could find no images. 
["Round Robe, c. 1795.
A round robe of very fine soft white muslin with frills of self material. The bodice lining is of firmer cotton, and the backs of both lining and bodice are cut the same. The bodice and skirt are sewn to the waistband, except the left side from, which from the center front to the side opening is gathered into a narrow band 5.5" long."] - Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes, p.307.

1830s Day Dress - Blue & White Plaid

Patterns: Truly Victorian #455 "Romantic Era Dress"
Fabrics: Polyester woven (not 'printed'. Same on both sides).
              100% cotton for lining and petticoat. Medium weight but incredibly high thread count - acts very "crispy" and stiff. (wish I could get more of this stuff, it's perfect for petticoats).

SOLD
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 40"
Waist - 33"
Hip - Free
Hem - 40" at front, 42" at back.
Hem circumference - 130"
Petticoat hem - 38"

1795-1803 Morning Dress in Sari Silk - Cassidy Percoco

Patterns: "1795-1803 Morning Dress" from RegencyWomen's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830, by Cassidy Percoco, pg. 34-37.

Fabrics: 100% Silk, print, with jacquard weave. 100% linen for lining, light weight, grayish-tan color.

Available on Etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE

Measurements: *I added a 1/2" seam allowance to the pattern pieces, though I'm not certain if I was meant to do so; wasn't mentioned in the book. I figured best to lean on the side of caution.

Under-bust - 30"

Bust - Variable, due to nature of loose front. 35" shown in these photos; kind of big.

Back width (actual piece) - 6.5"

Back width (arm sockets) - 12"

Hem, front (from underbust) - 40"

Hem,, back (from waist seam) - 43"

Back length (neck to waist seam) - 9"

Bicep - 12"

Forearm - 10.5"

*Sorry for the HUGE image below, but I really wanted to detail to show on this one =) Also, the sleeves are stuffed with pieces of netting to give shape, but it also makes the form look like she's about break out dancing, LOL

1881 Day Dress with Train - Rose Pink & Black

Patterns: Truly Victorian #420 Cuirass Bodice.
                 Truly Victorian #225 "Fantail Skirt" & Truly Victorian #324 for the apron front portion.
Fabrics: 100% Cotton print, medium weight for outer fabric.
               100% rayon silky, black, for bodice lining.
               100% cotton sheeting, white, medium/heavy weight for skirt facings.

Available on Etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE
*If you don't like using Etsy or Ebay 
for some reason, I also sell all my dresses
direct via paypal.

Measurements:
Chest - 36"
Waist - 27"
Hip - <42"
Hem - 39" at front
Back width - 14.5"

1893 Three-Piece Suit - Shetland Flannel

Patterns: A complete hodgepodge of at least four different patterns, coupled with so many alterations that it's basically meaningless. It's a self draft at this point.
Fabric: Shetland Flannel, 100% Cotton. The weave an even mix of rust orange and cream, which comes out to this peachy hue. The lining on the jacket and vest is cream poly/rayon. The lining on the skirt is green and blue poly/rayon (you can't see it, lol)

**This was a custom order and is already

on its way to its lovely owner =D 

Measurements:
36" Chest
29" Waist
38" Hem

And after final changes (there were further alterations to the above sketch).
The client was looking for a slight mix of eras; the wider A line skirt of the 1890s, but without the large sleeves or shoulder puffs.

1882 Tea Gown - Brick Red & Tan Calico

Patterns: Truly Victorian #432 Tea Gown
Fabrics: Red on tan print, 100% Cotton.
               Brick red solid broadcloth, cotton/poly.
               Apple Green silky lining, polyester/rayon
               Unbleached muslin interfacing (interlining), 100% cotton.
               Vintage cotton laces for trim.

Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Garment Measurements
Chest: 46"
Waist: 37"
Hip: 50"
Hem at front, from waist: 40"
Hem at back, from base of neck: 70"

Garment Features:
Fully interfaced and fully lined, sack style. 3/8" heavy duty nylon boning on front darts and side seams. Hand stitching on lining and lace trim. Real coconut shell buttons. Antique, repurposed lace. Final tally is roughly 43 hours of labor and 22.5 yards of fabric/lining/interlining combined.

(Pictures of the finished garment continue about 1/3 of the way down the post, after the construction details)

1880s Three Piece Suit with Open Jacket

Patterns: Truly Victorian 261 for  the skirt. My own drafting for the jacket and vest.
Fabrics: Brown is a cotton serge, medium weight. The skirt and vest are a gold/tan/cream brocade in stripes.

Available on Etsy HERE

Garment Measurements:
Chest: 40"
Waist: 30"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 40" at front

1886 High Neck Day Dress - Truly Victorian "Late Bustle" Patterns

Patterns: Skirt: Truly Victorian #261
                Over-skirt: Truly Victorian #364 "1886 Autumn Overskirt"
                Bodice (body): Truly Victorian #400 "1885 Cuirass Bodice"
                Bodice (sleeves): Truly Victorian #466 "Alexandra Bodice"
Fabrics: Maroon colored basic flat weave, "fiber content unknown." I suspect a high rayon content because of how soft and drapey it is.
              The black on the skirt and lining for the over skirt is loose weave georgette.

Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE

Final Garment Measurements:
Chest: 42"
Waist: 32"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 40" at front
Neck circumference: 15.5"
Back width: 15.5"

1850s Ball Gown - Gold & Ivory Brocade

Patterns: Skirt - Truly Victorian #244 "1859 Double Skirt"
                 Bodice - Simplicity 2881 as base, but heavily altered.
Fabrics: Polyester/Rayon brocade with metallic thread. Gold and Ivory stripe.

Available on Etsy HERE SOLD
Available on Ebay HERE

Final Garment Measurements:
Chest: 44"*
Waist: 33"
Hip: Free
Hem: 42"
*The bodice contains built in padding that alllows
the wearer to reach a final size of 44". The wearer
can have a smaller chest, then supplement with the padding.

1890s Gold on White - Butterick 3417 & 3418

Patterns: Skirt - Butterick #3418, view A without trims.
                 Blouse - Butterick #3417, view C, with trim alterations.
                 Sash - Good old math =)
Fabrics: Skirt is 100% cotton, medium weight, standard weave, with gold print.
               Blouse is 100% cotton batiste, light weight, with white embroidery and appliques.
               Lining is white China silk, flat lining, for both.

Available on Etsy HERE

Available on Ebay HERE

Measurements: *I made the pattern size 16 for the skirt and 18 for the blouse
Chest; 38" (variable, due to gathered nature of blouse. I would say 40" max)
Waist: 30"
Hip: <45"
Hem: 42" at front, about 44" at back (extra petticoats fluff the skirt outward, so true standing height from waist is probably around 40")