Wednesday, 18 May 2016

1871 Polonaise from Harper'z Bazar

Pattern: Harper's Bazar pattern supplement, 1871. Vol. IV, No.36, pattern #1 "Gros Grain Mourning Dress." Taken from the original magazine and sheet in my collection =)
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed houndstooth flannel. 100% silk accents, dark brown. 100% cotton lining.

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*I graded the pattern up from the original by several inches. The original comes out to a 24" waist
Chest: 40" (large cup)
Waist: 30"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14"
Hem: 39" at front.

~The Patterns~
   Like all Harper's Bazar patterns, the original is pretty small and does not include seam allowances or overlaps for closures. Still, this is a simplistic pattern that comes out beautifully =)
Note: I don't have many construction step photos for this post because my photo editing program decided to destroy of good number of them by turning them blank for no good GD reason! As you can tell, I'm still bitter =P 

The front piece is pretty simple, with darts and small pleats on the side seam.

The side piece meets at the center back, and the back piece is is attacked at the waist and sides. I don't have a pic of the back piece separately because of my computer problems =/

All pieces are flat lined in tightly woven cotton sheeting, white. The original pattern doesn't mention lining the pieces entirely, but my fabric choice required it.

The sleeves are large bells, sack lined but with silk facing near the cuff. Below you can see the application of the facing to the lining before I applied it.

(below) Showing inside of back section on polonaise.

(below) ribbon trim on sleeve.

I also flat lined the collar for stability, then sack lined it in the brown silk.

(below) lined side, silk.

At this point I am seriously pissed about the lost construction photos. It's great to know that Microsoft has ZERO explanation or help for why their crap program would do this....

The skirt is simple gore skirt with the back pleated at the waist and cut to fit over a bustle. The skirt is fully flat lined in blue striped cotton. The hem is piped in silk and trimmed with brown ribbon.


1 comment:

  1. Another Masterpiece! Lots of beautiful detail! Especially love the collar!