Saturday, 12 September 2020

Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit pattern, with alterations. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, medium weight. Linen/rayon blend, gray. 

A reproduction of an 18th century ladies' riding habit, in three parts: Coat, Waistcoat, and Petticoat. The waistcoat and petticoat are made of gray linen. The coat is made of black 100% wool.

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including all buttonholes. The buttonholes are corded and done in the keyhole style.

MEASUREMENTS - Waistcoat & Petticoat:
Chest: 40"
Waist: 32-34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40" at back.
Back Width: 13" (actual garment measurement at upper back. Armholes are wide)

MEASUREMENTS - Coat (The coat measurements are different, slightly larger, because they assume the increased bulk of a shirt and waistcoat. These measurements were taken OVER the waistcoat and other garments)
Chest: 42"
Waist: 34"
Back Width: 14" (actual distance between armhole seams, upper back)
Sleeve: 26" (outside curve)
      18.5" (inside curve)
Bicep: 14.5" max



Coat___________
Done with 100% wool, black, with a line weave that is barely noticeable. The weight is slightly heavier than medium, but not quite full winter coat weight. The wool pressed well under a cloth. The coat is fully lined in white linen, and the fronts as well as the collar, are faced with stiff silk taffeta, also black. All edges of the coat, including the pocket flats, collar, and cuffs, have been edge stitched by hand. 

The front body portions of the coat are inter-lined with a wide strip of linen buckram to stabilize shape and add body, as well as provide a firm base for the buttonholes. The center front closure is done with 8 silver dome metal buttons.

The skirt portions of the coat are pleated at the side-back seam, overlapping to create the buttoned-down vent typical of the 18th century style. 4 buttons adorn each side of the skirt vents. The center back vent is overlapping and stitched down at the top.

The pockets, one on either side of the front skirts, are done in white linen and covered with a 3-pointed flap. The pocket flap is faced with 100% silk taffeta, black. The pocket flat buttonholes are functional and close with 3 domed silver metal buttons.

The sleeves are full length and end with "Mariner" style cuffs, a flat that is stitched into a slit made in the sleeve outward facing side. The cuff flap had 4 domed silver metal buttons. All are functional open with hand worked keyhole shape buttonholes.

Waistcoat___________________
Done in gray linen and lined with white linen. The front bodies are interlined with a medium weight canvas for body and stability. The belt portion is also interlined. The back is adjustable with spiral style lacing through hand-worked eyelets. The waistcoat has full edge stitching, also done by hand.

The belt portion of the waistcoat can be removed and worn optional by means of buttons on the side-back seams.

Petticoat_______
Done in gray linen and cut in the usual 18th century fashion, with two separate waistbands--back and front--with ties to go around the waist. All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the hem and the side openings.

FINISHED




























Damn, it was a cloudy day too, but I just could not get my camera to take a decent shot of that white linen back without it being overexposed as hell. 













No comments:

Post a comment