Pattern: Self drafted body. Sleeves taken from Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabric: 100% cotton twill, rich green, with a very soft hand (feels almost like a low pile velvet!). The petticoat is 100% silk taffeta of varying stripes in golds, greens, and browns.
Back Width (garment, between armhole seams): 12"
Back Width (body, between arm sockets): 14"
Back Length, garment (from top to natural waist): 12.25"
Back Length, body (nap of neck to natural waist): 16.25
Torso length, side (from underarm seam to bottom): 8.25"
Front Length: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18.5"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back.
I did this version in a soft cotton twill, single face. The surface is very soft, almost like a low pile cotton velvet. The jacket is fully lined in gold/tan silk. The center front closure is done is pins (in the pictures, the pins are placed horizontally to the body, making them practically invisible)
*See the bottom of the post for more completion photos
- Shoulder Strap
- Upper Sleeve
- Under Sleeve
I'm not sure if there is already an established term or phrase for this 18th century (and possibly earlier?) method of setting in sleeves. It involves fitting the top of the sleeve over the shoulder lining piece, wrong sides together, and then top-stitching the outer shoulder strap over everything to finish. The result is that the seam allowance of the top of the sleeve is "sandwiched" between the lining and outer pieces of the shoulder strap.
As you can see, the sheer number of pins necessary to keep everything in it's place for the hand top stitching means that you will probably want to avoid tight woven silks like taffeta and other fabrics that show pin holes badly. Lucky this cotton twill doesn't show pin holes at all, so I could go crazy.
The lining for the sleeves I chose to slip stitch in by hand. I'm really not a fan of exposed seams, so I lean toward construction techniques that "bind" everything in.
(Above) The sleeves lining top, with seam allowance turned under, and pinned in place for slip stitching. The top curve of the lining is gathered into place rather than pleated.
(Below) The inside armhole, with lining finished.