Friday, 17 September 2021

18th century Riding Habit w/ militaristic accents - Green wool twill

 Pattern: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit, with self drafted changes to collar, lapels, cuffs, etc.
Fabrics: Wool blend Twill, dark green. Gold silk lining (repurposed drapery lining). Silk floss and gimp used for buttonholes. Muted gold metal buttons. 

Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30" (wiggle room with waistcoat and petticoat, and if the jacket is left open)
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" front, 42.5" back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 14" max

Construction Details
The body fronts and lapels are interlined with stiff linen, and the entire jacket is lined in gold silk that I repurposed from preowned draperies (fully laundered and ironed, of course). All of the buttonholes are done by hand with gold gloss, and piped with gold floss gimp that I made from the same matching floss (made in the same manner as Flanders cord). 

The cuffs are "Mariner's Cuffs" with two separate pieces, the folding cuff and buttoning overlap. All of the buttonholes, except those on the pocket flaps, are functional. I decided to make the buttonholes on the lapels functional, rather than just decorative with the buttons stitched on top, so that the lapels could unbuttoned and folded out for cleaning, ironing, etc. 

[Note on ironing: Use a pressing cloth, thin cotton or linen,
when ironing wool in order to avoid creating shining areas

The coat and waistcoat have full hand edge stitching, and the petticoat hem is done with a hand blind stitch. 

The Mariner's Cuffs
Below you can see the laundered silk lining well. 

The waistcoat has back lacing to allow adjustments to fit, as well as a waist belt that buttons at the sides. At first I wasn't sure if this belt was intended to actually do the job of a belt--fitting and pulling--or if it was just decorative. I believe the wearer, once they had the waistcoat laced to the fitting they would like, would have positioned the belt buttons on the sides where need to have the belt as snug as they would have liked. Another possibility could have been a length of cord or tape put through the belt buttonholes and then tied at the back, pulling it snug like a real belt. 


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