Pattern: Norah Waugh, Diagram XV "1740 Sack Dress", from The Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabrics: 100% silk broadcloth (see farther down for discussion of the fabric). Also cotton for the petticoat and linen for the bodice and sleeve linings.
Measurements:*due to the nature of this garment, fitting accommodates a small range.
Chest: 36 - 38"
Waist: 29 - 31"
Hip: Free
Back width: 14"
Hem of Petticoat: 39" at front
40" at back
44" at sides
Wednesday, 15 June 2016
Tuesday, 7 June 2016
1760 Jacket - Oops! on a Waugh Pattern =/
Pattern: Diagram XXX "Jacket, 1760-1770" from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. **with alterations relating to a HUGE mistake on my part. Full explanation below.
Features: All visible stitching done by hand, including the petticoat hem and the quilting on the stomacher. The jacket has full edge stitching, also done by hand.
Fabrics: Jacket is a very lightweight, almost feather-weight, wool in a kind of mint green/blue (a nightmare for thread matching!). Lining is white linen, 100%. The petticoat is off-white cotton of a very loose weave, rather like lawn. It is a re-purposed fabric, formally living life as drapes, so it has a laundered, lived in feel =)
Measurements: *scaled up from the original piece by at least 5 dress sizes.
Chest: 43-45"
Waist: 36-38"
Back width: 15"
Hem: 40" at front
42" at back
44" at sides
Features: All visible stitching done by hand, including the petticoat hem and the quilting on the stomacher. The jacket has full edge stitching, also done by hand.
Measurements: *scaled up from the original piece by at least 5 dress sizes.
Chest: 43-45"
Waist: 36-38"
Back width: 15"
Hem: 40" at front
42" at back
44" at sides
Thursday, 2 June 2016
Ageless Patterns #1462 - 1870 Jacket
Patterns: Ageless Patterns #1462 "1870 Embroidered Swiss Muslin Jacket"
Fabric: Plain 100% cotton, black.
Chest: 38" Max
Waist: 28"-31" (front is unfitted and loose, secured with belt or sash)
Hip: Free
Fabric: Plain 100% cotton, black.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Measurements: *The pattern says "medium" and these results bear that out.Chest: 38" Max
Waist: 28"-31" (front is unfitted and loose, secured with belt or sash)
Hip: Free
Monday, 30 May 2016
1869 Parlor Dress - Separates
Patterns: Truly Victorian #202 "1869 Grand Parlor Skirt"
Bodice from Harper's Bazar, June 3rd 1871. Supplement pattern No.II (personal magazine supplement collection).
Fabrics: Skirt is 100% silk, plaid. 100% cotton lining.
Bodice is heavy weight 100% cotton sateen.
Measurements:
Chest - 37"
Waist - 29"
Hip - Free
Hem - 39" at front, 60" at back
Back width - 14.5"
The illustration above, taken from the cover of Harper's Bazar (June 3rd, 1871) appears to show a bolero jacket over neck height bodice. In fact, the trim on the bolero gives that illusion. The under portion is, in fact, low neck. The original had the bolero hooking closed from neck to top of breast, covering the exposed portion of the low under-bodice. I decided to leave the bolero open and allow the under-portion's low neckline to show.
Bodice from Harper's Bazar, June 3rd 1871. Supplement pattern No.II (personal magazine supplement collection).
Fabrics: Skirt is 100% silk, plaid. 100% cotton lining.
Bodice is heavy weight 100% cotton sateen.
Measurements:
Chest - 37"
Waist - 29"
Hip - Free
Hem - 39" at front, 60" at back
Back width - 14.5"
The illustration above, taken from the cover of Harper's Bazar (June 3rd, 1871) appears to show a bolero jacket over neck height bodice. In fact, the trim on the bolero gives that illusion. The under portion is, in fact, low neck. The original had the bolero hooking closed from neck to top of breast, covering the exposed portion of the low under-bodice. I decided to leave the bolero open and allow the under-portion's low neckline to show.
Monday, 23 May 2016
1860s Bolero (Zouave) Jacket with Detachable Sleeves
Patterns: Truly Victorian #444 "1864 Spanish Jackets"
Truly Victorian #441 "1861 Garibaldi Blouse"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed Hounds-tooth Flannel. Blouse is cotton with a raised mini-stripe and dot. 100% silk for lining and all piping accents.
Measurements:
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hip - Free
Hem - 43"
This set is made from the same hounds-tooth flannel I used for my last project, the 1871 Polonaise. I love 60" fabrics because they go so much further than their 45" counterparts. =)
Truly Victorian #441 "1861 Garibaldi Blouse"
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed Hounds-tooth Flannel. Blouse is cotton with a raised mini-stripe and dot. 100% silk for lining and all piping accents.
Measurements:
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hip - Free
Hem - 43"
This set is made from the same hounds-tooth flannel I used for my last project, the 1871 Polonaise. I love 60" fabrics because they go so much further than their 45" counterparts. =)
Wednesday, 18 May 2016
1871 Polonaise from Harper'z Bazar
Pattern: Harper's Bazar pattern supplement, 1871. Vol. IV, No.36, pattern #1 "Gros Grain Mourning Dress." Taken from the original magazine and sheet in my collection =)
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed houndstooth flannel. 100% silk accents, dark brown. 100% cotton lining.
Measurements:
*I graded the pattern up from the original by several inches. The original comes out to a 24" waist
Chest: 40" (large cup)
Waist: 30"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14"
Hem: 39" at front.
Fabrics: 100% cotton, yarn dyed houndstooth flannel. 100% silk accents, dark brown. 100% cotton lining.
Measurements:
*I graded the pattern up from the original by several inches. The original comes out to a 24" waist
Chest: 40" (large cup)
Waist: 30"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 14"
Hem: 39" at front.
Monday, 2 May 2016
1911 Suit Ensemble - From "Margot Hill" book
Patterns: All taken from the 1911 Women's pattern set in The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter A. Bucknell. New York: Reinhold (1967), p. 206-209.
Ensemble includes separate patterns for:
Blouse
High-waisted skirt
Fabrics: 100% Cotton, all layers. The green fabric is a woven jacquard in sage green. The blouse is cotton batiste, embroidered and flocked with appliques.
Measurements: *Patterns in the Hill/Bucknell book have been sized to an average 25/26" waist, and 35" bust. I did not grade this pattern, but made it "as is" from the book. These were my final dress form measurements during mounting of the finished garments
Chest: 35"
Waist: 27"
Hip: 38"
Hem (from natural waist): 39"
Back width: 14"
Neck: 15" max
Wrist (for blouse): 7.5" max
Sleeves from shoulder (blouse): 22"
Sleeves from shoulder (coat): 23"
Ensemble includes separate patterns for:
Blouse
High-waisted skirt
Coat
Measurements: *Patterns in the Hill/Bucknell book have been sized to an average 25/26" waist, and 35" bust. I did not grade this pattern, but made it "as is" from the book. These were my final dress form measurements during mounting of the finished garments
Chest: 35"
Waist: 27"
Hip: 38"
Hem (from natural waist): 39"
Back width: 14"
Neck: 15" max
Wrist (for blouse): 7.5" max
Sleeves from shoulder (blouse): 22"
Sleeves from shoulder (coat): 23"
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