Sunday, 17 February 2019

1808 Bib-Front Day/Evening Dress - Neutral stripe Voile

Patterns: Laughing Moon #126, View B.
Fabrics: 100% cotton sheer weight (voile), woven stripes in neutral tones of cream, brown, and pink. Bodice lining in cream broadcloth.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: The bodice style allows a small range of fit.
Chest: 39-41"
Underbust: 34.5 - 35.5"
Waist: <40" (not really important)
Hip: <45" (also not that important. Skirts are full)
Length (from underbust): 46" at front, 47.5" at back
Back Width (between armhole seams): 10"*
Back Width (real arm socket position): 14.5"*
*the sleeves are cut with fullness at the back, cutting in further than they do on modern garments. This gave the illusion of a narrow upper back.
Bicep: <14"
Hem Circumference: 120"


Summary:
A bib-front style gown done in feather-weight cotton voile and lined in light taupe broadcloth (bodice and sleeves. Skirts are unlined). The dress is shown over a single under-bust petticoat. The sleeves are convertible long/short, with the bottom section finished as a separate piece and tack stitched to the inside of the upper sleeve's cuff. These stitches can be picked out quickly and the bottom sleeves removed. The front is held in place with ties around the under-bust, secured at back, and two self-made Dorset buttons on the fronts to hold up the center panel. The center panel has a drawstring channel at top for fit adjustment.

All visible stitching has been done by hand.

Sunday, 6 January 2019

Fairy Queen Costume - M4997

Patterns: McCall's 4997 "Renaissance Robe", and Simplicity 2777 for the under-dress. Alterations made to both.
Fabrics:  Pink fabric is a polyester/spandex/metallic blend with moderate stretch in one direction. A very fine silver thread interwoven creates the glistening effect. Green fabric is 100% polyester georgette, semi-sheer.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements:
Chest: 46-48"
Waist: 36-38"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40"
Back Width: 16.5"
Upper Arms: Very wide, OSFA


Saturday, 15 December 2018

JP Ryan Riding Habit - Red Linen

Patterns: Riding Habit from J.P. Ryan, with minor alterations.
Fabrics: 100% linen, brick red. 100% linen lining, gray-blue with tan and grey stripes. 100% cotton floss for buttonholes.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements:
Chest: 40/41"
Waist: 33/34"
Hem: 39" at front
Back Width: 14"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Bicep: 14" max


Thursday, 6 December 2018

1760s Casaquin Jacket - Blue Wool

Patterns: My own drafted pattern, adapted from a 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the Larkin & Smith "English gown" pattern. The cuffs are self drafted.

Fabrics: The jacket is 100% wool, dark blue, medium weight. The petticoat is 100% linen, medium weight, in a gold-beige with a soft print of sprigs. The jacket lining is a patchwork of different linens, natural and white.
Available on Etsy HERE
Measurements: *the lacing front allows for a range of fit
Chest: 39 - 41"
Waist: 32 - 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (cut for a bum roll)
Shoulders: 17.5"



Monday, 3 December 2018

1770s Casaquin Jacket - White Print Chintz

Patterns: My own drafting, adapting from the 1750 jacket in The Cut of Women's Clothes. The sleeves are from the English Gown pattern sold by Larkin & Smith.

Fabrics: 100% cotton chintz, tightly woven, with a print of black dots and black/red flowers. It is a reproduction print from Burnley & Towbridge made in 2013. The fabric is no longer on their website, so I'm not sure it's still in production. Lining is a mix of cotton and linen.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE

Measurements: (the lacing closure allows for a range of fit)
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 27-30"
Upper Arm: 13.5" max
Shoulders: 17" max
Back Width: 13.5"
Nap to waist: 16.5"

Friday, 30 November 2018

Larkin & Smith English Gown - Blue Wool

Patterns: Larkin & Smith "English Gown" with en fourreau style back.
Fabrics: 100% wool, medium weight. 100% linen.
Time to Finish: About 4 days with hand top stitching.

Measurements:
Chest: 39"
Waist: 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 36"
Sleeves: 18" from shoulder


Saturday, 24 November 2018

1872 Basque Separates - Cian Silk

Patterns: TV #305 "Bustled Apron Over-Skirt", TV #410 Polonaise (altered to bodice length), Self-Drafted Collar.
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, light cian color. Wool/silk blend suiting, solid black.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Measurements:
Chest: 35.5"
Waist: 27.5"
Hip: <40"
Hem: 39" at front.
Back Width: 14"
Shoulders: 17.5"
Nap to Waist: 16"
Bicep: <13.5"
Sleeve Length (front curve): 13.5"



An early 1870s ensemble consisting of 5 separates pieces:
Bodice,
Collar,
Belt,
Over-skirt,
Skirt.

The skirt and over-skirt are 100% silk taffeta, in a light cian color. The bodice is a tightly woven wool/silk blend, medium weight, in stark black. The collar is a separate piece with a single hook/eye at the center front. The bodice has a plain square neckline.