Wednesday, 26 January 2022

Pet-n-l'air with "comperes" stomacher.

Patterns: Self drafted (pet41)
Fabrics: 100% cotton, Indian block print. White muslin lining. 

Chest: 40-41"
Waist: 33-34"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 15"
Shoulders: 18.5"
Bicep: 14.5" max

Drafting Update

This is the second time I have used this pattern after the initial drafting. I kept everything the same, except I ended the length by 1.5" and redrew the sleeves to correct for the shoddy seam allowance lineup. Everything is pretty much perfect now, so I can finally trace out the final pieces on the good paper for future use. In the on-going fight to catalogue and keep track of my many, many self-drafted patterns, I have decided to designate this one "Pet41" (Pet-n-l'air with 41" chest).


This style of pet-n-l'air is fully lined in the body (back fitted section, plus side and front pieces lined), mostly because it is best suited to thinner fabrics that would not hold up on their own the way silk does on more formal pet-n-l'airs and full Robe Francaise. 

For particular pet, though, I went a step further and did full lining, even on the back pleats and side skirt piece. This is because the block print cotton I used was very light weight, and the print pattern was showing through the various folds on the back pleats. So I did a full flat lining with another layer of light weight cotton. 

The sleeve linings are set in by hand, whip-stitched over the seam allowance. As there are no exposed or raw edges anywhere in the garment, it is easy to launder. 

The channels on the back lining that contain the 3/8" wide boning are left open a the top, so the bones can be taken out for laundering. 

(above) the inside, under the back plates, showing the ties and boning channels. 

Known as a "comperes" front, the stomacher has functioning buttonholes and buttons down the center front. This can be treated like a regular stomacher, pinned in every time, or the wearer can pin it into place once to fit, and then stitch it permanently and use the buttons are closure in the future. 

The buttons are also handmade, wrapped over small wood forms. 


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