Patterns: J.P. Ryan "18th Century Frockcoat"
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, black, medium weight. 100% silk, black, plain weave. 100% linen, plaid of green and beige. 100% cotton twill, black, for lining facings.
Measurements: *made the pattern size 48" and came out true to size. Measurements taken on the form.
Waist: N/A (open coat)
Sleeve, outsize curve: 26"
Sleeve, inside curve: 19.5"
Bicep: 17" max
Shoulders: 22" across back of neck.
|18th century Black Velvet Frockcoat. |
For full photo album, scroll down to the bottom of the post.
- Silk covered buttons (hand wrapped, in period method). 32 total (10 down front, 8 on cuffs, 6 under pocket flaps, 6 on skirt vents, 2 over skirt pleats.)
- Handmade faux buttonholes, 24 total.
- Full edge stitching, done by hand, with the "wrap over" method on the lining (Fancy French term: Point a rabattre sous la main)
- Linen interlining on the body fronts and pocket area, for strength and stability.
- Faced lining, black cotton twill on skirts and down fronts.
- Linen lining on sleeves and upper body.
- Cuffs and pocket flaps lined in charcoal gray silk taffeta.
- Two functional pockets, 7" deep.
When it comes to men's coats, and especially these curved-front cutaway style coats, interlining really is key. Maintaining the crisp shape of that front curve is not easy. The fabric there wants to stretch, and you an end up with that ugly squiggle wave features down the front. But not if you secure things properly =)
Now, the second part of securing the shape of the front edge is one that is often omitted in reproductions, but I swear by it! This is called droit-fil, which is a fancy French way of describing a piece of cotton or linen tape. It needs to be something sturdy that has no stretch at all, 1/2" is best.
You first fold over the seam allowance on the front edge of the coat, pressing it nice and flat if you're fabric will take an iron. The droi-fil is placed over the folded front edge as shown.
(above) showing the back side of the coat front, with false buttonholes already done (you can see the stitching coming through), and droit-fil pinned in place for stitching. You then hand whip-stitch the droit-fil to the coat along both edge, making sure the stitches do not go through the front side.
(above) showing the left front section of the coat, with pocket flap and buttons already applied. You can also see the additional tac-stitching that has been applied between the buttonholes marks. This holds all the layers of fabric nicely in place while you do your buttonholes.
(below) Showing how the sleeve lining is attached. After the sleeves are set in with just the outer fabric, the seam allowance of the armhole is clipped it, so it can be folded, and then the sleeve seam allowance is folded under and pined over the edges. Slip stitched in place.