Tuesday, 1 December 2015

1880s Plaid Suit - TV428 Pattern (altered)

Patterns: Truly Victorian #432, "1880 Jacket Bodice" (altered)
                 Truly Victorian #263, "1887 Imperial Skirt", view A
                 Truly Victorian #368, "1887 Waterfall Overskirt" (partial, and altered)

Fabric: 100% cotton, homespun. Plaid in shades of blue, gray, and black. Light weight.
             Medium weight cotton for interfacing. Blue rayon "super silky" for jacket lining.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Alterations: Many. See below for specifics.
Chest: 44"
Waist: 35"
Hip: <55"
Hem: 40" at front
Back width: 16"
Sleeve: 23" from top of shoulder.

Foundation/undergarments: Shown over Cane Hoop Bustle and one cotton petticoat.

The Truly Victorian #428 pattern is designed for the non-bustle, natural form era. I altered it so heavily that it's a bit of stretch to say it's still the same pattern, but I did maintain the front and collar, which is the most distinctive feature. I basically did the front as was, then recut to the bottom of the bodice to a new shape and added width at the back so it would just out slightly over a bustle.

The bodice is fully boned on all seams. For the front darts I did the encased method, sliding the boning directly into the uncut darts. =) I decided to line with blue "super silky" rayon instead of something more period correct. Why? Because I just really like rayon linings. They make everything slide on so easily.

I only used the front apron piece from Truly Victorian #368. The back fluffy peplum is my own design. It is basically just a long U shaped pieces of fabric with edges narrow hemmed and gathering used to puff it up along the edge and down the center. Attached to the waistband to cover the ends of the apron pleats. 


There isn't much to tell on the skirt. It's the TV "Imperial skirt", view A. I will warn you now that even with a huge bustle, the back will probably still drag or be too long. This is better than being too short, of course, so you can just hem accordingly once you see the difference you need to make up.

I added a 9" bias ruffle at the hem. I usually don't go bias with such wide flounces (waist of fabric), but in this case I wanted the contrast of the plaid lines going 45 degrees.

A purchased item that I altered by adding the standing ruffle. I bought it at a junk store a while back, but I very much doubt it's old enough to even be called vintage. I like it in any case =)


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