Thursday, 22 March 2018

1805 Black Stripe Dress with Silk Bodice

Pattern: Self Drafting
Fabrics: Black cotton with a sateen vertical stripe. 100% silk satin, vintage, with Asian leaf pattern. Dark blue linen for bodice lining.

Measurements: *drawstrings and lacing give this ensemble some range of fit.
Chest: 35-37"
Under-bust (bodice): 32-34"
Back Width: 12.5"-14"
Sleeve Bicep: 14" max

This style of regency dress is one of my favorites to make because it's so simple and comfortable. I like to call it the sweatpants and hoodie of the Regency era. The dress has drawstring closures at the front and back, allowing for quite a large range of fit. I imagine this style of dress could have been shared my several women in the same family.

~Sleeveless Bodice~

This little garment is, of course, more fitted than the dress underneath it. I drafted it directly over the dress as a very simple accessory addition to the dress. It is made form a vintage silk satin I found in an antique store some years ago. I'm afraid I don't know much about the fabric's age or origin, just that is it definitely 100% pure silk and came in a very narrow width, suggesting it was Japanese in origin. 

Draping is a fussy business, but for something like this it's on the simple side. Because this garment is sleeveless, I decided to stitch the lining (dark blue linen) and the body together on all edges except the shoulder seams, which would then be sandwiched together and top stitched by hand. Below you can see the bodice before the shoulder seams are stitched. 

The closure for the bodice is a simple spiral lacing at the front. The eyelet positions allow the wearer to do a standard cross lacing too if desired, but it was uncommon for the era. You could also do simple ribbon bows going through the eyelets. It gives several options =) 

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