Sunday, 3 March 2019

1780s Pierrot Jacket - Pink Stripe Silk

Pattern: Drafted from a combination of pieces from extant garments featured in The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. The bodice is mostly taken from the 1780s anglaise (plate XXII).

Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, pink and cream stripe. The lining is pieces from unbleached cotton osnaburg and bleached cotton muslin. The front is interfaced with plain white linen to add body for the buttons.

Measurements: (Can be adjusted slightly by shifting the button positions at the center front)
Chest: 36"
Waist: 28"
Hip: Free
Back Width (arm seam to arm seam): 11.5"
Back Width (real body): 13"
Back Length (from nap of neck to natural waist): 16"
Bicep: 13" max
Forearm: 10.5" max
Wrist: 7.5" (adjustable, shift button)
Armscye: 18"
Hem: 40" at front, 43.5" at back (cut for large bum roll or rump)

All visible stitching is done by hand, such as the button holes, edge stitching on the cuffs, etc. The buttons are also handmade, wrapped around blank forms in the usual 18th century fashion.

I'm not sure what term best describes this style of cuff, which I have seen in many museum pieces and fashion plates. I suppose the closest would be "Mariner's cuffs". Sometimes they include just the button flap, sometimes the flat and the second wrap-around cuff. The sleeve fit quite snugly at the write, making the buttons functional and necessary.

A standard two panel skirt with side openings and separate back/front waistbands.  Ribbons ties around the front and back. The fabric is a version of swiss dot with narrow vertical lines. Unfortunately, it's not entirely HA. The cotton has a slight spandex blend in it, though it is mostly cotton. I didn't realize until I had already gotten started, I often the fabric looks is more important than what it actually is (strangers certainly shouldn't be touching and pulling on your clothes at events! lol)

1790s Anglaise. Plate XXVI, Norah Waugh
These are by far my favorite sleeves I've taken from extant patterns. They go with the anglaise dress, plate XXVI, from The Cut of Women's Clothes. I have graded them to several different sizes for my own use. What I like about these is that while the underarm is high---higher than modern garments certainly---there is extra fabric in the underarm that folded up when you're arms and down, and provides slack when you're arms are up. There is no restriction of arm movement with these sleeves =)

For the construction of the sleeves, I attached the lining by hand separately, whip-stitching it around the armhole inside. This method avoid bulk around the armscye and eliminates exposed seams inside the jacket.


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