1770s Work "Seersucker" Caraco Jacket - Blue & Red Stripe

Pattern: I draped this pattern myself, though I did take the sleeves from one of the Anglaise dresses shown in The Cut of Women's clothes. 
Fabric: 100% cotton, uncommon seersucker weave. There is much to discuss about this fabric choice, as seersucker is often dismissed as a purely 20th century fabric that did not enter fashion until the 1910s. The weave is actually much older and has documentation in Europe and the American colonies as early as 1694

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 38"
Waist - 32"
Hip - Free
Hem - 36" at front, 38 at sides, 39.5" at back (suited to medium or large bum roll)
Back width - 12" (armhole to armhole)

1885 Blue & Black Stripe Suit

Patterns: Truly Victorian 460 Bodice (altered), TV #364 Overskirt, TV #261 Skirt, TV #104 Collars/Chemisettes
Fabric: Navy blue with black herringbone stripe, smooth faux silk. Bodice lining is yellow satin.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements (as shown in photos):
Chest - 43"
Waist - 35"
Hip - <50"
Hem: 40" at front
Back width: 16"
Sleeve - 22.5"
Neck (chemisette) - 15"

**This dress is show over a crescent pillow bustle of my own design. 

1885 Yellow & Black Plaid Suit

Patterns: Truly Victorian 460 (heavily altered), with folding collar taken from Truly Victorian 428. Skirt is Truly Victorian 261, with the back panel flipped so that the curve it at the top waistband and the hem is straight.
Fabric: Silk/cotton blend, though I can't be certain. I'm certain it is mostly silk, with the second fiber being something natural. The burn tests were non-melting, grey ash with the scent of burning hair, which matches silk.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements:
Chest - 43" max
Waist - 34" max
Hip - 50" max
Hem - 40" at front
Back Width - 16"

 

The black satin portion is a plastron with a full collar and ties securing it around the waist and underbust.

Hood & Capelet. Update on the FOTGA pattern - Black linen & Paisley

Pattern: My own redraft of the Cashmere hood taken from Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II (see previous post about the original pattern)
Fabric: 100% linen, heavy weight. 100% cotton lining, paisley print. Interlining is cotton flannel.
**Care notes: Machine washable. Hang dry or tumble dry with low heat. 
Measurements:
Essentially one-size-fits all, though a very small wearer might find the neckline too large. The capelet is cut as a true circle, so it will lay over any shoulder width.

Available on Etsy HERE

Construction Features:
The capelet hem is hand bound in matching linen, no visible stitches.
The hood and capelet linings are hand whip-stitched at the neckline.
Hidden snaps secure down the point of the hood and the front folds on the hood opening.
The point of the hood is decorated with two black faux-fur balls.

The pointed hood is held down with a small snap that can be undone when the hood is lowered or i the wearer wants the pointed look =)

Fashions of the Gilded Age - "Cashmere and Satin Hood" Red Velvet

Pattern: "Cashmere and satin hood," reprinted in Fashions of the Gilded Age: Vol. II, p.80.
Fabrics: Red "Premier velvet", FD-6000 grade (how I wish this stuff was still widely available!). Black satin lining. White cotton flannel interlining.

1750s Anglaise with Robings - Red & Gold

**Note: I decided to post all the photos for this post at original 

size, which may be difficult to view on phones and tablets

Pattern: Larkin & Smith "English Gown", with significant alterations.
Fabric: 100% cotton, medium/heavy weight (lighter than canvas, heavier than calico). Gold and Red damask print. 8 yards at 54" used in total, gown and petticoat.

This dress is available to buy on Etsy HERE

Measurements:
Chest: 34-36"
Waist: 28-29.5"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 11" (18th c. style, of course)

1760s Casaquin -or- How to make an 18th century Dress From a Single Indian Sari

Pattern: None. Self drafted to mimic styles in extant fashion plates and garments.
Fabric: 100% silk, Indian, made from a single 5 meter sari.
             Interlining of cotton twill, medium weight.
             Lining of cotton osnaburg, unbleached.

Available on Etsy HERE

Measurements: *this garment utilizes a pinned stomacher closure and has a moderate ease of fit.
Chest: 34-35"
Waist: 27-28.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40.5" at back. Cut to fit over large bum roll.
Back width: 11.5" (18th c. silhouette, shoulders thrown back more than typical of modern figures)
Upper Arm Circ.: 13" max.

Closure Method: Spiral lacing at front, covered by pinned stomacher. Jacket edges are then pinned to  the stomacher to conceal.

**The rest of the finished garment images begin about half way down the post