1895 Ripple Jacket & Skirt - TV

 Patterns: TV496 "1896 Ripple Bodice, TV296 "1895 Ripple Skirt". 
Fabrics: Poly Taffeta with floral/vine embroidery, bronze. Knobby wool blend, red. 

Measurements:
Chest: 43-44"
Waist: 34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40.5" at front.
Back Width: 16" max
Neck: 16" max

18th century Riding Habit w/ militaristic accents - Green wool twill

 Pattern: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit, with self drafted changes to collar, lapels, cuffs, etc.
Fabrics: Wool blend Twill, dark green. Gold silk lining (repurposed drapery lining). Silk floss and gimp used for buttonholes. Muted gold metal buttons. 

Measurements:
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30" (wiggle room with waistcoat and petticoat, and if the jacket is left open)
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" front, 42.5" back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 14" max

Eagle's View 18th Century Waistcoat - Red Wool

Patterns: Eagle's View Men's Waistcoat, 18th century version, with alterations. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, tomato red, tropical weight. 100% linen, natural, medium weight. 

Measurements:
Chest: 42-43"
Waist: 37-39" (back lacing to fit)

Mill Farm Riding Habit (sort of) - Green Wool, 1750s style.

Pattern: The Mill Farm Riding Habit, but with significant alterations. In fact, the only piece I didn't heavily alter was the back. 
Fabrics: 100% wool, hunter green. 100% linen, tartan pattern. 

Measurements:
Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 37-38"
Hip: Free
Sleeve length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve length (inside curve): 17"
Bicep: 15" max

Hem: 38.5" at front, 41.5" at back (shown over large false rump)

"Rocking Horse Farm" 18th C. Banyan & Cap (red swirl cotton)

Pattern: Rocking Horse Farm #152 "Banyan & Cap 18th century" (First time use) 
Fabrics: 100% cotton outer fabric, deep red with scrollwork patterns in gold, dark brown. 100% cotton lining, white with block print scroll pattern. Front, cuffs, and collar facing done in silk/rayon blend velvet, emerald green. Cap done in all the same fabrics. 

Measurements: 

• I made the pattern size Large, marked as a 40-42" (101-107cm) chest. Still quite comfortable up to a 44"(112cm), however. 
• The sleeves are overlong, nearly 38"(96cm) from the neck, intended to be rucked up or folded up at the cuffs as I have done. The velvet facing is very deep and the cuffs can be folded up more than twice as deep as shown in the images, if needed. 
• The full length at the back, from collar seam to hem, is 59.5" (151cm)
  
• The cap comes in only one size, and came out to comfortably fit a 22.5"(57.15cm) head, with wiggle room

1790s Round Gown - Brown Embroidered cotton (with sleeveless bolero)

Patterns: Laughing Moon #133 Robe en Chemise with significant alterations and construction changes. I basically used it as my jumping off point. 

Fabrics: 100% cotton batiste, embroidered, dark brown. Linen/cotton blend for lining, also dark brown. Bolero is 100% silk, mini stripe in coral and cream.  

All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the hem and drawstring channels. 

Measurements (gown only): *Style allows for a lot of wiggle room in the chest, underbust, and waist.
Chest: 34-38"
Underbust: 30-34"
Waist: Pretty much free, would work as maternity wear. 
Hip: Free
Back Width: 13.5" 
Hem Length: 41" at front from natural waist. About 44" from the underbust seam. 4" longer at the back. 
Hem Width: 180" very fully. 

Measurements (bolero): *with center front fully laced closed
Chest: 36"
Underbust: 32/33"

1760s Riding Habit, or "sporting" ensemble

 Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit for the coat. The waistcoat and petticoat and self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, gold, for the petticoat and waistcoat. The coat is 100% wool, lightweight and with a very tight weave and smooth finish. The coat is lined with indigo blue cotton and a gray/green plaid linen. 

Measurements: Made the pattern size 10 with no alterations to fit. Patterns runs true in this size
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (shown over a split rump)
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 13.5" max
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18"
Back Width (Between armhole seams on Coat): 12.5"

Once again, J.P Ryan's riding habit pattern proves to be the best available =)
I changed the orientation of the pockets and the flaps for preference, but other than that there were no changes to the pattern itself. The instructions are more modern, but if you're familiar with 18th century construction techniques, it's nothing to just assemble it the way you want. 

The "Sporting Ensemble"?

I've seen many images, especially paintings, or so-called riding habits that really didn't look feasible for a woman to be wearing on actual horseback. I think riding ensembles were quite popular for other outdoor activities, like lawn games, picnicking, etc. I got my impression here from a fashion plate that indicated a silk taffeta petticoat with a riding coat. I can't imagine anyone would attempt to ride a horse in a taffeta petticoat! That would be the worst fabric imaginable for that purpose, so it was definitely the riding habit "look", but not the function. 

[of course we do this today as well. It's common for people to wear yoga gear when they do not and have no intention of doing yoga =P]

1880s Riding Habit - Brown wool blend

Patterns: Truly Victorian #264 "Riding Habit Skirt" , Bodice is a combination of the Truly Victorian riding jacket and a self drafted front, with alterations to the back. 
Fabric: A chocolate brown wool/poly blend. Skirt lining faux silk, cobalt blue. Bodice lining is a piece-work of scrap linen and silk. 

Measurements:
Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 31-32"
Hip: <44"
Hem: 42" at left side (42" all around when right side is looped up *see below)
Bicep: 14" max
Neck: 15.5" max

1895 Bolero Jacket & Skirt Set - Waugh LX

Patterns: Butterick 3418 for the skirt, Truly Victorian #494 for the blouse, and pattern diagram LX from Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes for the jacket. 

Fabrics: Green velvet lace, rayon/cotton blend. Black faux silk, rayon (Jacket lining), and black satin poly blend (skirt lining). 

Measurements: *Being an open front jacket, there is some wiggle room is upper body fit. 
Chest: 36-38" (accommodates large cup size well)
Waist: 28"
Hip: <42"
Hem: 40.5" at front, 42" at back. 
Back Width (between armhole seams): 12.5"
Back Width (actual body measurement): 14-15"
Back Length (jacket, from nape to end): 14.25"
Shoulders: 16.5" roughly, though large sleeve allows wiggle room.
Forearm circumference: 12" max
Bicep (sleeve lining): 14" max
Neck: 13.5" max (close fitting)

Diagram LX "c.1895 Bolero Jacket"

This is my first time making the 1895 Bolero Jacket from the Waugh book. As I always do with first time patterns like this--patterns taken from extant garments--I made this jacket with no alterations to to size or fit from the original pattern. I just added a 1/2" seam allowance. This way I could establish its original size and fit, something that is necessary before you can grade it to other sizes. 

Thanks for the Settings change, Google! >:(

 A quick apology to everyone who has left comments or tried to contact me here via the blog over the last few months. I had always kept my blog easy and open to the public, but Google decided to put moderation on comments for some reason and I didn't know, so all those comments were lingering in purgatory, waiting for my attention and approval when I didn't even know they were there. 

Woop! I changed the setting, though, so we're back to the chaos. I'll try to delete the spam comments as they appear ;) 

18th Century American "Hunting Frock Coat" or Shirt.

Pattern: None. Basic cutting instructions for men's 18th century shirt, with alterations. 
Inspiration: Based on images of an extant hunting frock, labeled as being from "Abraham Dunham 1776". I only had images to work from, as there was a paywall on the scholarly articles related to it =/ (see pics below)
Fabric: 100% linen, unbleached. 

Measurements:
A very forgiving garment, not fitted at all, except at the cuffs. I did measure and cut the pieces for a 44" chest and a full sleeve (neck to wrist) of 29". 

Pattern: Self Drafted.
Fabrics: 100% cotton print, 100% silk taffeta. 

Measurements:
Chest: 35-37"
Waist: 28-32"
Hip: Free
Shoulders: 17.5" roughly.
Bicep: 13.5" max
Garment Center Back Length: 24.5" 

My new self drafting for a casual pet-en-l'air. 100% cotton, hand stitched. Applying the ruching trim by hand was the single largest expense in work hours, but worth it. And I finally found a good enough reason to break into my stash of vintage French rayon ribbon =) 

New Pierrot Jacket Drafting - Green Twill

Pattern: Self drafted body. Sleeves taken from Waugh's Cut of Women's Clothes.
Fabric: 100% cotton twill, rich green, with a very soft hand (feels almost like a low pile velvet!). The petticoat is 100% silk taffeta of varying stripes in golds, greens, and browns.  

Measurements: 
Chest: 38-39"
Waist: 32-33"
Back Width (garment, between armhole seams): 12"
Back Width (body, between arm sockets): 14"
Back Length, garment (from top to natural waist): 12.25"
Back Length, body (nap of neck to natural waist): 16.25
Shoulders: 16.5"
Torso length, side (from underarm seam to bottom): 8.25"
Front Length: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve Length (inside curve): 18.5"
Sleeve Length (outside curve): 26"
Hem: 39" at front, 42" at back.

Summary: A new drafting for a simple, late 1780s Pierrot jacket. The sleeves are full length with eyelets on the cuff, laced shut with ribbon. The body has only two pattern pieces, front and back. The back pieces are quite narrow to lend the optical illusion of a narrow back. 

I did this version in a soft cotton twill, single face. The surface is very soft, almost like a low pile cotton velvet. The jacket is fully lined in gold/tan silk. The center front closure is done is pins (in the pictures, the pins are placed horizontally to the body, making them practically invisible) 

*See the bottom of the post for more completion photos

18th c. Caraco w/Comperes Front - Red/Cream Cotton

Pattern: Self Drafted "Gabriella" jacket
Fabrics: 100% cotton, all parts. 

Measurements:
Chest: 35/36"
Waist: 29/30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" Front, 42" Back (bumroll or rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 13.5" max

Summary
A 3rd quarter 18th century Caraco jacket with comperes panel front closure and silk covered buttons. The jacket is fully edge trimmed with narrow box pleats that use the stripe print of the cotton. I stitched all the trim down by hand. The buttonholes are also hand worked, and the buttons are silk covered wood forms. 

Another "True" Robe a la Polonaise (Caraco)

Pattern: Self drafted. 
Fabrics: 100% cotton, jacquard weave of moire with pink stripes. 100% silk lining, baby pink. 100% silk organza, white for cuffs. 100% silk taffeta, white, for hem and neckline ruffles. 

Measurements:
*One of the great things about this style is how forgiving it is with fit. The pin closures allow easy adjustment up or down for body fluctuations. 
Chest: 38-41"
Waist: 31-34"
Hem: 37.5" at front, 40.5 at back (cut for a bull roll or rump pad)
Bicep: 14" max

Summary: The ensemble consists of the over dress (Caraco a la Polonaise), petticoat, and an extra wide stomacher that might have been referred to as a "false waistcoat." All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the application of the white silks trims and shoulder strap/sleeve insertions. The petticoat has hemmed by hand.